There's a motif of roundness at Bambara: The swirling spirals in the restaurant's logo continue elsewhere in the room — even in the handles of the flatware. The upholstery of each booth makes a poufy, rounded turn into the bench behind.
The roundness is balanced by angles and corners in the restaurant's rosy-lit, eclectic interior. But that roundness — or fullness, or maybe abundance — mirrors the Bambara experience.
Nearly everything that makes dining out rewarding is present at Bambara. Respect for its location in an old building — elegant settings, marble accents — complements whimsical touches, such as jazzy light fixtures and odd-looking plants.
Bambara is one of those restaurants whose dishes sound like poetry. Phrases like "bleu cheese and applewood-smoked bacon," "bourbon mashed sweet potatoes" and "Grand Marnier creme anglaise" swirled around us like incense, fragrant with promise.
Practically the entire menu has been retooled under chef Robert Barker, who gives things a subtle southern-Cajun turn. This approach — using the best ingredients and remaining true to tradition while jazzing up pairings and accompaniments — makes Bambara's brand of fine dining engaging, even fun.
Bambara wants to be accessible to folks like you and me. There's a blue-plate lunch special on weekdays (three courses for $9.50) and a "pantry special" each night (three courses for $26). Don't know what "maytag blue cheese" is? Ask your server. He or she will be happy to explain things and won't act like you're ignorant for asking.
We asked about the bleu cheese hand-cut potato chips and were told they've developed a cult following. I also tried the wild mushroom and chevre strudel, served with sweet onion jam and balsamic syrup.
I was sorely tempted by the sauteed Muscovy duck breast, and equally interested in the Morgan Valley roasted leg of lamb. The server clinched it for me by saying, "If you're looking for something sweeter and richer, try the duck."
That sounded divine, but I knew I'd have to eat dessert later, so I went with the lamb, which came with shiitake and asparagus relish, home fries, Yorkshire pudding and whole-grain mustard sauce.
My friend, on the other hand, wanted the filet mignon topped with maytag bleu cheese and applewood smoked bacon, with gratin potatoes and a roasted shallot cabernet wine sauce.
Everything was wonderful. Some things approached exquisite. The potato chips were challenging but rewarding: earthy, crisp, hardly salty but full of the flavors of Yukon gold potatoes, bleu cheese and chive. The strudel, served Asian-roll style, was a medley of rich dark flavors — almost sea-tasting mushrooms floating on smooth warm chevre, wrapped in a crispy strudel skin. It was delicious on its own and practically perfect with the sweet-savory jam and a dollop of balsamic syrup.
Our entrees were similarly well-executed. The filet was juicy despite being well-done, and my lamb was carefully roasted to medium-rare to bring out its delicate flavor and tender texture. The accompaniments were well chosen, from the incredibly creamy and delicious gratin potatoes with the steak to my wonderful relish, a simple pairing of sliced shiitake mushrooms and tiny crisp-tender asparagus.
And dessert? Well, I'd like another review just to talk about it. We tried the bittersweet chocolate cake with Grand Marnier creme anglaise, one of the darkest of dark-chocolate cakes I've had. We also had the sampler platter, which features several small portions of various desserts plus a few of Bambara's house-made sorbets and ice creams.
Our plate featured orange vanilla creme brulee, silky-textured and sweetly citrus; warm pumpkin ginger bread pudding, with the pumpkin balancing the rich caramel sauce; and the chocolate banana tart, with bananas Foster in a firm, creamy chocolate filling poured into a pastry shell.
Walking out of Bambara, we felt, not full, but filled, physically and emotionally. We'd eaten a four-course meal, but Bambara's pacing is so good that you have time to stow one course away before the next arrives, so you can enjoy everything to the fullest. And you will.
Appetizers $4.50-$14; salads, $6.50-$9.50; entrees $18-$29; desserts, $6.75-$14.
Rating: ****
Where: 202 S. Main
Hours: Monday-Friday: 7-10 a.m.; 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m.; 5:30-10 p.m.
Saturday: 8-11 a.m.; 5:30-10 p.m.
Sunday: 8 a.m.-noon; 5:30-9 p.m.
Phone: 363-5454
Payment: credit cards; no personal checks
Reservations: recommended
Stacey Kratz is a free-lance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com