There are tons of lunch spots in downtown Salt Lake City, dozens of places where you can grab a sandwich, a salad or a bowl of soup.
What sets Carriage Cafe apart are a few little things: a simple but thoughtful menu, laid-back but competent service, a tempting assortment of desserts and one of the best settings in all of downtown. The cafe is in the carriage house of the historic Devereaux House.
Sipping French onion soup on the patio of the Carriage Cafe, sandwiched between the Triad Center on one side and the Delta Center and TRAX terminus on the other, you'd never know you're downtown,
On the recent spring weekday that a friend and I visited the Carriage Cafe, we were wrapped in spring breezes and birdsong, with the sun lighting up the building's vintage-style brick facade. The sounds of train and traffic receded to an agreeable murmur.
And the food's pretty good, too. We both had the French onion soup, which arrived at our table in a paper soup container sealed with mozzarella cheese and a round of bread. The soup was hot, full of onions and had a savory-sweet flavor.
My friend tried the German turkey, one of the 10 sandwiches on the menu. It features plenty of roasted turkey and provolone cheese, plus a chunky, creamy avocado and tomato chutney and the usual sandwich fixings (lettuce, mayo, salt and pepper). We both had our sandwiches toasted, which adds extra texture and interest to the tasty selection of "made-fresh-daily breads."
I loved my sandwich, the deliciously complex McPhie. Lashings of roast beef are piled on a toasted Kaiser roll with provolone, sauteed onions, sun-dried tomato pesto and sandwich fixings. The onions were delicious, sweet and dark; the pesto was thinly applied, so it complemented but didn't overwhelm the meat.
Both sandwiches come with high-quality potato chips and a crispy pickle spear. Java fans will be happy to know that the cafe serves a selection of Starbucks coffee. And sweets fans, like me, will enjoy the desserts.
There's biscotti for your coffee, if you like, or gooey chocolate marshmallow cookies. You can get chocolate chip cookies or Rice Krispies treats or enormous, puffy cinnamon rolls. Or you can get raspberry or kiwi sorbet, chocolate or vanilla gelato or creme brulee.
We had creme brulee and enjoyed it thoroughly. It was hot and crackly with caramelized sugar on top, cool underneath, with a custardy texture and creamy-sweet taste. It's a small portion but a good way to finish out a nice lunch.
Yes, there are many other sandwich joints downtown. What I liked about the Carriage were little things: interesting fixings like chutney, pesto, sauteed onions and cranberry sauce on the "create-your-own" menu; high-quality meats and cheeses; service that managed to be friendly and laid-back but also quick.
And then there's that setting. You can eat inside — the airy dining room features marble tile, dark polished wood, bar-height metal tables and chairs, and lots of windows — but on a beautiful day, with flowers blooming and spring in its full glory, why would you?
Sandwiches $3.25-$6; salads $3.50-$5.50; soups $4-$6; desserts $1-$2.50. Breakfast served 8 a.m.-11 a.m.
Rating: ***
Where: 330 W. South Temple
Hours: Monday-Friday, 8 a.m.-8 p.m.
Closed Saturday and Sunday
Payment: Cash, credit cards
Reservations: None taken
Phone: 532-2399
Stacey Kratz is a free-lance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com