I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by.
—John Masefield
From the very beginning, New England has had a special relationship with the sea. From the waters off the rocky shores came fish for sustenance, adventure for the taking, and connections with the world at large that sent Yankee products abroad and brought a better life home.
The sea brought settlers early in the 17th century. And by the middle of that century, after the initial work of carving out homes in the wilderness was done and folks began looking beyond their shores for both trade and exploration, shipbuilding became a major industry.
Abundant timber and increasing skill at the craft meant that by the middle of the next century, New England shipyards were cranking out on average of one ship a day.
It's hard to underestimate the legacy of this maritime activity, point out Robert G. Albion, William A. Baker and Benjamin W. Labaree in their book "New England and the Sea."
Although at any given time, only 10 percent of the population was involved in maritime work, "the activities of this small fraction gave to the region a special flavor that has remained to this day," say the authors. "What the mariners of New England did was to transform their native land from a random collection of farming communities and give it a place of significance in the world at large."
This is the maritime legacy that is captured so well at Mystic Seaport, aptly known as "the museum of America and the sea." The 17-acre open-air, open-sea museum on the Mystic River in Mystic, Conn., includes a 19th century coastal village with historic ships, extensive exhibit galleries, a preservation shipyard where visitors can often see shipbuilding in action and a huge collections research center.
In the village . . .
What was life like along the New England coast during what was known as the Golden Age of American maritime activity? Perhaps not quite as golden as it sounds. These were labor-intensive times, when everything from blacksmithing to bucket-making was done by hand. Meals were prepared over a wood fire in kitchens where water was hauled in most likely from a well.
Dozens of houses and buildings in the village demonstrate this life. Most were moved here from locations throughout New England and restored to their period. Daily activities, from cooking to blacksmithing, give you a sense of what life was like.
Sea captains who took high risks in sailing far-flung seas often reaped high rewards — if they survived. And their homes reflected a degree of wealth not shared by most of the population. But amidst the luxury, you can't help but wonder about the loneliness of the women and children left behind. "Widow's walks," roof-top outlooks that offered a view of the sea, attest to that.
Town records reveal the hazards of sea life. In 1783, in the seaport of Salem, for example, there were more than 400 widows.
Still, when you set foot on one of the full-scale ships at Mystic Seaport, it is easy to understand the lure of the sea and appreciate the excitement of sailing under cloth sail.
Among the ships that call the seaport home are the Charles W. Morgan, the world's last surviving wooden whale ship, built in 1841 in New Bedford, Mass.; the Joseph Conrad, built in 1882 as a Danish training vessel; and the L.A. Dunton, one of the last of the Gloucester fishing schooners.
These ships all have National Historic Landmark status, and speak tellingly of life at sea.
In the galleries . . .
Sea life is further interpreted through the many exhibits offered at Mystic Seaport. Central among them is "Voyages: Stories of America and the Sea," which personalizes the sea experiences through the lives of immigrants, explorers, ship captains and other seafarers. "Sea Dogs" offers up great "tails" of the sea. And a new exhibit highlights experiences of women and the sea.
A display of figureheads — the colorful life-size figures attached to ships' bows — tells stories of myth and superstition as well as artistry and craft. Elegant cane tops are part of a scrimshaw exhibit. Model ships tell of the fascination of hobbyists and others. A miniature layout of the town of Mystic and the Seaport provides another perspective on the place.
In the shipyards . . .
Between 1784 and 1919 — this period known as the Golden Age — more than 600 ships were constructed along the Mystic River, many of them were the fastest clipper ships in the world.
The great period of shipbuilding ended with the advent of steam power. But it lives on at Mystic's preservation shipyard, where skilled craftsmen use 19th-century methods and tools to preserve, restore and renew old wooden ships as well as build authentic replicas of new ones.
The Amistad, famous in film, for one, was built in the cavernous H.B. duPont shipyard. A second-floor balcony allows visitors to view whatever current project is going on there.
Skiffs and dories and other such craft are built in the Small Boat Shop, where work is often done by college students and others taking a shipbuilding course.
You may also see old sails being repaired or new ones cut and sewn in the Charles Mallory Sail Loft.
The process of shipbuilding is an amazing one, particularly as it was done before modern tools and technology came along. That process that comes to life in Mystic Seaport's building barns means you will never look at a ship — or even a boat — in quite the same way again.
In the learning mode . . .
Sure, they'll tell you, you can call it a collection. You can also call the Great Wall of China a fence.
In 2002, Mystic Seaport celebrated the grand opening of its Collections Research Center — the nation's leading maritime research facility. Included are more than 2 million maritime artifacts, including 1 million photographs dating back to the 1840s; 1.5 million feet of film; 1,200 maritime paintings; 500 sea vessels; 100,000 ship plans; 2,000 ship models; and thousands of figureheads, tools, carvings and other items relating to the history of man and the sea.
While many of the artifacts are on display, or are rotated through exhibits, the collection is also accessible to students, scholars and even moviemakers. The list of movies and television programs shot at least in part at the Seaport includes "Amistad," "Gangs of New York," "Moby Dick," and a number of History Channel productions.
In addition, Mystic Seaport offers a full Maritime Studies program in connection with Williams College, that includes both undergraduate and graduate courses. Boat building, sailing and navigation classes are also open to the general public. If you've always wanted to sail the open seas, here's a place to learn how. Pretty cool classroom.
In the town . . .
The nautical heritage of Mystic Seaport extends to the town of Mystic, situated on the Mystic River just as it empties into Long Island Sound. The boat building and the related exploration and trade created a thriving center of commerce as well as a charming town populated by houses reflecting the wealth of builders and traders.
Nearby towns such as Groton, Noank and Stonington also capture a lot of the flavor of that earlier era.
But there are modern connections to the sea, too. The river and the sound offer adventures aplenty, from whale-watching cruises to sailing on everything from reconstructed 19th-century schooners to riverboats, sailboats and ferries. You can even paddle about in kayaks.
Nature preserves along the shore lure hikers and bikers. The Mystic Aquarium offers a look at sea life and sea exploration. It is the home base of Robert Ballard, who has uncovered a number of relics of the deep, including the Titanic. The Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center tells the story of the area's earliest inhabitants.
The town and the Seaport both are places to fall in love with all things nautical, to embrace wholeheartedly the words of poet John Masefield:
I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied.
If you go. . .
Mystic Seaport is open daily, year-round except Christmas Day. Hours are 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. from April through October and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. from November through March.
Admission is $17 for adults; $9 for ages 6-12. Tickets are good for two consecutive days.
For more information, write to Mystic Seaport, 75 Greenmanville Ave., Mystic, CT 06355; call 1-888-9SEAPORT or visit www.mysticseaport.org.
For information about the Inn at Mystic, call 1-800-237-2415 or visit www.innatmystic.com.
Located in the southeast corner of the state, barely over the border from Rhode Island, Mystic is about midway between New York City and Boston.
E-mail: carma@desnews.com