"Consider the lilies of the field, how they grow; they neither toil nor spin. And yet I say unto you, that even Solomon in all his glory was not arrayed like one of these." (Matthew 6:28-29)
Scholars differ as to the plants the above biblical scripture refers to, but certainly lilies are worthy of the accolade. With their large, trumpet-shaped blossoms that seem to tout their own beauty, they are striking flowers wherever they grow.
Lily is a common name that in our day refers to several different plant species. Many — such as the daylily, calla lily, peace lily, toad lily, voodoo lily, stink lily and surprise lily — are not true lilies.
True lilies are members of the genus "Lilium." They grow from bulbs made of fleshy, overlapping scales with no protective covering. These bulbs produce large, showy blossoms in the summer garden. Many true lilies make excellent flowering plants for Utah gardens.
True lilies have relatively narrow strap-like leaves along the length of their stiff upright stems. Their flowers develop at the tip of each stem. The flowers can be trumpet-shaped, bowl-shaped or bell-shaped with reflexed petals, meaning they curve back toward the stems.
On some varieties, the blossoms nod downward, while on others they face outward or turn upward. They offer gardeners a wide variety of heights, flower forms and colors. In fact, their garden presence is so striking, they are often called the queen or the grande dame of the summer garden flowers.
Not only are they beautiful, they are easy to grow. With a little planning, you can choose a combination of early, midseason and late-blooming cultivars and have lilies in bloom from mid-June through mid-September.
Many different species of lilies are available, but not all of them thrive in Utah. Asiatic and Oriental lilies are the two most popular types that grow well in northern Utah gardens. An ideal location for Asiatic and Oriental lilies is a spot with six to eight hours of direct sunlight.
Lilies like rich soil, so add compost to improve your beds. If your have heavy clay soils, consider making berms to raise the soil to improve drainage.
Asiatic lilies are among the easiest to grow. They're very cold-hardy, need no staking and are not particularly fussy about soil, as long as it drains well. Flowers come in bright and pastel shades of almost every color except blue. Their only drawback is that they are not fragrant.
Oriental lilies have become increasingly popular due to their large, exotic (often frilly) blooms and heavy, sweet perfume. Place them where you can enjoy their fragrance and beauty. Many have such large flowers that they need staking to prevent them from breaking off in the wind.
Easter lilies are popular flowering pot plants, but they don't always survive our winters. Many gardeners protect them by mulching heavily. If they survive the winter, they will bloom in August.
If you have a shade garden, Martagon hybrids, a group of Turk's-cap lilies, are prized for their ability to bloom well in shadier conditions.
For best effect, plant the same variety in groups of three or five bulbs. Space the bulbs 8 to 12 inches apart, and keep the groups 3 to 5 feet apart, depending on the vigor and size of the lily.
While now is not prime planting time, visit local gardens to make your variety selections. Many nurseries carry lilies already growing in containers that you can plant for immediate enjoyment. You can add these to your garden throughout the growing season.
You can also use these potted plants indoors or in patio containers, and then plant the bulbs in the garden when they finish blooming. Unlike spring-flowering bulbs that expend all their energy when they are forced into blooming, lilies will re-establish readily in the garden and bloom again the next year.
Lily bulbs are normally planted in the fall, usually mid-September through mid-October. They can also be planted in the spring, but they are slower to establish in the garden.
Plant small bulbs 2 to 4 inches deep and large bulbs 4 to 6 inches deep, when measured from the top of the bulb. While they are hardy, they need attention every three or four years. Carefully dig, divide and replant large bulb clusters as needed to keep them blooming well.
Unlike tulips and daffodils, lily bulbs never go completely dormant, so never let them dry out before planting, and do not attempt to store them out of the ground over the summer. Buy fresh bulbs and plant them as soon as possible.
Pest problems are minimal. Slugs and snails often damage emerging shoots, so hunt and bait accordingly. Aphids and thrips can damage the flower buds, so carefully wash the affected plants with your garden hose to remove them.
Deadhead the spent flowers as they fade by breaking them off carefully. That prevents the plant's energy from being wasted on seed production and builds up the bulb. Do not remove stems or foliage after they flower. The plants continue to put energy into the bulb as long as they remain green. After the stalks die in the fall, remove old foliage by cutting down the dead stalks.
These regal plants deserve a place in your garden. With minimal care, they will last for years and add their beauty each summer as a wonderful perennial.
Larry Sagers is the regional horticulturist, Utah State University Extension Service, at Thanksgiving Point.