SANDY — Bajio Grill is one of that breed of better-than-fast-food, faster-than-regular-restaurants Mexican eateries that have sprung up in the past several years.
You know what I mean — full-to-bursting burritos, a preparation method that lets diners watch as their meal is assembled, a whimsical "theme" to the restaurant's decor and/or the names of its menu items.
Bajio is springing up as fast, if not faster than, most of its competitors, with 11 planned or current locations in Utah. And if a Bajio appears by the roadside as you're driving along feeling hungry one day, you could do much worse than to stop by for a bite.
We took the kids for a weekend dinner to one of the chain's newest locations — at Union Heights in Sandy. This restaurant is appealingly lit for evening dining: hung with at least a dozen huge cut-metal lanterns, the lighting is low enough to make the experience seem special but bright enough to see what you're eating.
The menu is straightforward: entrees and sides, period. There are kids' meals, with choice of a taco, bean-and-cheese burrito or cheese quesadilla, along with one side of rice or beans.
There's actually more choice than you might think as Bajio offers both traditional Mexican rice and "sweet rice," plus refried, black and chili beans. Our kids shared the cheese quesadilla, a standard preparation enlivened by the soft, fresh-cooked tortilla, and the burrito filled with black beans and cheese, which was simply flavored but satisfying.
My husband, a chimichanga fan, tried the beef version, which also was filled with rice and beans (in his case, Mexican and black, respectively), rolled and deep-fried just long enough to crisp it up. It was served with mild tomatillo sauce (his choice) and more rice and beans on the side. The beef was lean and well-seasoned, the beans tender and creamy-fleshed, and the rice savory and fluffy.
I had the chicken enchiladas. It's difficult to describe my meal since so many variables went into its preparation: I chose not only what filling I wanted (there's also beef and sweet onion), but what kind of chicken (out of two options) and what kind of sauce on top, plus the aforementioned bean-and-rice choices.
Let's just say I went the spicier route, and it was a good choice for me. The whole dish was spicy but not to the exclusion of other flavors. On the side I had the sweet rice, a great contrast with my enchiladas with its bright, slightly fruity taste.
I also had a single shrimp taco, which turned out to be my favorite part of the meal. Into a fresh, saucer-size tortilla, our server piled plump shrimp sauteed in honey butter, then topped them with mango salsa, a sprinkling of cheese and, at my request, chunky pico de gallo. They're messy eating but more than repay the effort.
I think I'll try them as a meal next time, or perhaps the sweet-onion enchiladas. Or I might have one of Bajio's salads, with the chicken green-chile variety (caramelized sweet onions, green-chile chutney, chicken breast, cheese and tortilla strips over greens) high on the list. Despite the wealth of competition in its dining niche, Bajio has just enough distinctiveness to make it a place I'd seek out for a repeat visit.
Burritos $3.49-$6.49, tacos $5.49-8.49, enchiladas $4.99-$5.99, specialties $6.99-$8.39, salads and soup $4.99-$7.99, kids' meals $2.99-$3.49, sides 49 cents-$2.49
Rating: ***
Where: 7662 S. Union Park Ave. (Union Heights shopping center), Sandy
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Closed Sunday
Payment: Checks, credit cards accepted
Phone: 569-2400
Stacey Kratz is a free-lance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com