Say the words "hospital food cook-off" and most people expect Jell-O cubes and bland mashed potatoes.
But the National Society of Healthcare Foodservice Management's culinary competition in Florida last month featured such exotic-sounding entrees as Mojito Chicken Cubanos and Porcini-Powder Dusted Chicken Breast. The grand prize? A trip to Hawaii to cook at the American Dietetic Association's annual conference.
Pat Scott, director of food services at Intermountain Health Care's LDS, Cottonwood, Alta View and Orthopedic Specialty hospitals, and Larry Petrlak, the executive chef for those hospitals, were one of the five teams in the finals. They had one hour to cook their entry, Power House Chicken, which was served with a "nest" of sweet potato and pineapple and braised Swiss chard.
The entry was big on nutrients, color and flavor. Of the spices they used, Petrlak said turmeric is linked to warding off cancer and Alzheimer's disease, and cinnamon is thought to help reduce cholesterol. Swiss chard is a good source of vitamins A, K, C and magnesium. Blood oranges were chosen for their color impact.
Although the competition, just in its second year, doesn't carry the clout of the Pillsbury Bake-Off or Food Network's "Iron Chef," it does show how far hospital food has come.
"The level of creativity and talent displayed in this year's entries is outstanding and reflective of the culinary excellence in today's health-care facilities," said Betty Perez, contest chairwoman, in a press release announcing the finalists.
And although the Utah team didn't win — the Mojito Chicken Cubanos from Swedish Medical Center in Seattle took top honors — the contest underscores the efforts of many local hospitals to improve their food services.
"Hospitals have always made food nutritionally sound for patients, but in the last little while we've looked at taste and presentation," said Scott. "More hospitals are hiring executive chefs such as Larry to make that happen."
Before he came to IHC five years ago, Petrlak had worked at Walt Disney World and country clubs and as a private chef to Lawrence Rockefeller in Jackson Hole, where he cooked for President Bill Clinton.
"The idea of a cafeteria is a mold we wanted to break," said Petrlak. "It reminds people of school days and the ladies with the hair nets. Now it's a different presentation, to keep up with outside trends."
Many local hospitals shun the term "cafeteria" in favor of "cafe," "bistro" and "restaurant."
"We charge each other a quarter if we slip and call it a cafeteria," said Kathleen Nielsen, food services director at McKay-Dee Hospital in Ogden, where the Mountain View Cafe does made-to-order pastas or stir-fries along with its usual fare. The executive chef, Stephanie Nielsen (unrelated to Kathleen Nielsen), gives cooking demonstrations for patient classes, adding flair to healthy recipes like Honey Grilled Chicken and Moo Goo Gai Pan.
The Point Bistro at the Huntsman Cancer Hospital cooks pizzas in an open-hearth oven and sandwiches on a panini grill. Down the hall, The Point Restaurant's glass-enclosed dining area offers a striking view of the Salt Lake Valley and moonlights as a reception center.
During the summer, Primary Children's Medical Center hosts outdoor barbecues on Tuesdays and offers "room service" similar to a hotel, where the children can order meals when they want them, said Maria Givler, administrative dietitian.
When Diana Barton of Kaysville spent a week in University Health Care's neurology wing, the nurses urged her to eat.
"I didn't have much of an appetite, but it was easier to try because the food was so good," she said. "Even my husband, Bryan, enjoyed it, and he wasn't even a patient! Instead of just a big white glob of rice, it was yellow and had flavor."
"In the past, hospitals hired institutional cooks, and it was traditional tray-line food," said Kathleen Nielsen, who hired McKay-Dee's first executive chef in 2001. "A trained chef brings skills in using spices and flavors, and they're better at taking a recipe and making it more healthy."
For instance, most of McKay-Dee's gravies are low enough in fat for a restricted diet but are flavorful enough that the same gravy is served throughout the hospital without complaints.
Customers today are more discriminating about food, Petrlak said. "There are more gourmet convenience foods out there, so they have a baseline of what is expected. They may not know the procedure that they're having done, but they want the beans to be green."
One change Petrlak made is requiring the staff to taste the food more often to correct flavors, he said.
Hospitals face a host of challenges. Patients' taste perceptions may change when they're coming out of anesthesia or are on medications. People are staying a shorter length of time in the hospital, and their doctors want them to be eating well before they can leave.
Another challenge is getting the meals to patients while they're hot and fresh-tasting. Scott said LDS uses a conduction heating system, where the cooked food is plated cold, then heats up when a heat-activated dome goes on top of the plate. McKay-Dee has a convection system where the cooked food is quick-chilled so it doesn't lose quality. Divided trays are placed on a cart where one side keeps cold food cold; the other side heats the food intended to be hot.
Nielsen recently got approval for "room service" similar to that in a hotel, where patients call in their orders from a menu.
"Patients like it because they can eat what they want, when they want," she said. "Some may want breakfast at 6:30 a.m., and others might feel like sleeping in until 10. Patients eat more, and food waste is minimal, because people are ordering only what they want to eat."
At LDS, the 900 or so patient meals make up only about 25 percent of the meals the hospital prepares in a day. The rest are served to employees, doctors, patients' families and are used to cater meetings and events.
"We have to offer something in every price range, from salmon to hot dogs," said Petrlak. "And we need to meet the expectations of our employees who eat here every day on a budget. We have to keep our prices reasonable."
Andrea Heline, a respiratory therapist at LDS Hospital, says the made-to-order sandwiches are so filling that you only need a half-sandwich to be satisfied. She also thinks the hospital does a good job with Mexican entrees and breakfast items.
"But I've also found that when families are worried about someone in the hospital, a lot of times they just want comfort food rather than something fancy," she said. "So it's good that they can still get things like mashed potatoes or grilled-cheese sandwiches."
A recent visit to LDS's 8th & C Cafe yielded an entree of Chicken Cacciatore for $2.90. Adding herb-seasoned orzo pasta, a bowl of corn chowder and a half-pound salad (it's priced by weight) brought the total to $6.75.
Recently at The Point Bistro, grilled panini sandwiches were $4-$4.50. The day's special, cheese tortellini with creamy tomato meat sauce, was $4.99, and a bowl of pork and rice curry soup was $2.95. An order of three salmon-and-shrimp cakes was $7.99, including a side of sauteed veggies and french fries or a trip to the baked-potato bar.
On a recent visit to The Point Restaurant, the special was Stuffed Pork Chop. You could also get made-to-order sandwiches and salads, and Asian items like vegetable lo mein ($3.25), Mongolian beef ($4.59), and lettuce wraps ($4.75).
Although she doesn't eat at The Point Restaurant regularly, University Health Care nurse Shawna Baker says she often takes out-of-town pharmaceutical company reps there when they come to monitor research data. "It's nice enough that you don't have to go out to a restaurant," she said.
At Cottonwood Hospital, a group of community leaders comes in every Friday for the clam chowder, said Petrlak. "Now we serve it at LDS, Cottonwood and Alta View."
But does all this matter to a patient who's restricted to chicken broth?
"Even if it's just chicken broth, when that's all the person is getting for the whole day, it can't be taken for granted," said Petrlak. "It should be the best chicken broth it can be."
BLACKBERRY COBBLER
1/4 cup butter
1 cup sugar, divided
1 cup sifted all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 1/2 cups skim milk, divided
1 1/2 cups frozen blackberries
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Spray 10-by-5-by-3-inch pan or 2-quart casserole dish with cooking spray. Cream together butter and 1/2 cup sugar until light and fluffy. Sift together flour, salt and baking powder. Add flour mixture to creamed butter and sugar mixture alternately with 1/2 cup milk. Beat until smooth. Pour into prepared pan. Spoon berries over batter. Sprinkle 1/2 cup sugar over berries. Pour 1 cup milk over top. Bake 45-50 minutes. Batter will rise to top and create a custard within.
Options: Raspberries, blueberries or canned sliced peaches or canned tart cherries may be used. Sugar sprinkled on top may be decreased to 1/4 cup depending on sweetness of fruit. If using canned fruit, drain before using. Serves 8.
Nutrition per serving: 184 calories, 5 grams fat , 2 grams protein, 34 grams carbohydrate, 2 grams dietary fiber, 13 mg cholesterol, and 211 mg sodium. — Stephanie Nielsen, McKay-Dee Hospital Center
POWERHOUSE CHICKEN
Tumeric Chicken:
6 chicken breasts (preferably Tyson Tender-Press Marinated, frozen)
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
2 teaspoons turmeric
2/3 cup whole wheat flour
6 tablespoons quinoa grain
Salt and pepper to taste
4 tablespoons sesame oil
Thaw and rinse chicken. Mix the allspice, turmeric, whole wheat flour, salt and pepper. Press quinoa into chicken, then dredge chicken in seasoning mixture. Saute in hot sesame oil until golden brown and internal temperature is 165 degrees.
Blood Orange Glaze and Sweet Potatoes:
1 fresh gold pineapple
2 fresh blood oranges (or 2 regular oranges)
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons sesame oil, divided
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons chopped ginger in oil, divided
2 cups orange juice
1 cup white wine (option: 1 cup water)
1 cup water
4 tablespoons cornstarch
2 fresh sweet potatoes
1 tablespoon maple pancake syrup
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Wash pineapple, trim the leaves and cut into sixths. Remove pineapple from the rind (save rind as the base for the chicken presentation) and remove the core. Julienne the pineapple. Set 70 percent aside to be used with the sweet potato side dish; the other 30 percent for the glaze. Wash blood oranges, cut into eighths and remove from the skin.
In a sauce pan, heat 1 tablespoon sesame oil, then add 1 tablespoon ginger and caramelize (cook until golden). After ginger is caramelized, add orange juice, white wine and chopped pineapple. Reduce heat and simmer. When mixture has reduced by half, raise heat until it reaches a slight boil. Mix water and cornstarch into a slurry and add to orange glaze mixture, and simmer to thicken. Place in food processor and puree.
Wash and peel sweet potatoes, then julienne. Heat 2 teaspoons sesame oil in pan with 2 teaspoons ginger and caramelize, add sweet potatoes and saute until al dente. Add the julienned pineapple and toss; add the maple syrup and cinnamon. Toss, remove from heat.
Swiss Chard:
2 bunches Swiss chard
2 teaspoons sesame oil
1 teaspoon chopped garlic in oil
2 teaspoons peeled fresh shallots
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon light brown sugar
2 ounces pumpkin seeds
1/2 cup seedless golden raisins
Salt and pepper to taste
Wash and cut Swiss chard. Heat sesame oil in pan. Add garlic and shallots and caramelize them. Add Swiss chard and toss. Add vinegar, sugar, raisins, salt and pepper. Remove from heat fold in pumpkin seeds and serve.
Presentation: Place pineapple rind on the dinner plate. Cut chicken into strips and place on top of pineapple. Drizzle orange puree down the middle of the chicken. Place the sweet potato mixture in a tall fashion; place the Swiss chard also in a tall fashion. Pumpkin seeds and golden raisins should be visible on top of the chard. Serves 6. — Larry Petrlak, LDS Hospital
HONEY-GRILLED CHICKEN
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1 teaspoon garlic powder
1/3 cup reduced sodium soy sauce
1/3 cup orange juice
1/4 cup honey
1 green onion, chopped
4 medium boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
In a large self-closing plastic bag, combine first six ingredients; mix well. Place chicken in bag and seal tightly. Turn bag gently to distribute marinade. Refrigerate 15 minutes or up to 30 minutes for stronger flavor. Turn bag occasionally. Lightly grease grill rack. Preheat grill to medium heat. Remove chicken from marinade; discard marinade. Grill 6-8 minutes per side, or until juices run clear. Serves 4.
Nutrition per serving: 221 calories, 2 grams fat, trace saturated fat, 29 grams protein, 23 grams carbohydrate, trace dietary fiber, 68 mg cholesterol, 879 mg sodium. — Stephanie Nielsen, McKay-Dee Hospital Center
MOO GOO GAI PAN
12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken breast halves
1/2 cup chicken broth
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoon rice wine or dry white wine
4 teaspoons cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1 tablespoon cooking oil, more as needed
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 medium carrots or one cup, thinly bias (diagonally) sliced
8 ounces whole small fresh mushrooms, or 3 cups sliced
2 cups fresh pea pods or one 6-ounce package, frozen and thawed
1/2 of an 8-ounce can sliced water chestnuts, drained
3 cups hot cooked rice
Cut chicken into thin, bite-size strips. To make sauce, in a small bowl stir together the broth, soy sauce, rice wine or white wine, cornstarch and sugar. Set aside.
Pour cooking oil into a wok or large skillet. Add more oil as necessary during cooking. Stir-fry garlic in hot oil 15 seconds. Add carrots; stir-fry 3 minutes. Add mushrooms and pea pods, stir-fry about 1 minute more or until carrots and pea pods are crisp-tender. Remove vegetables from wok. Add chicken to the hot wok. Stir-fry 2-3 minutes, until no pink remains. Push chicken onto sides of wok.
Stir the sauce in bowl, then add to the center of the wok. Cook and stir until thickened and bubbly. Return the cooked vegetables to the wok. Add water chestnuts and, if using, thawed pea pods. Stir all ingredients together to coat with sauce. Cook and stir about 1 minute more or until heated through. Serve over hot cooked rice. Serves 4.
Nutrition per serving: 439 calories, 7 grams fat, 54 mg cholesterol, 685 mg sodium, 62 mg carbohydrate, 29 grams protein. — Stephanie Nielsen, McKay-Dee Hospital Center
POACHED PEARS
8 Bosc pears, with stems
Zest of one lemon
1 cinnamon stick
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground pepper
3 cups apple cider
1 cup water
Peel and core pears, coring from bottom of pear to leave stems intact.
In a large saucepan, combine lemon zest, cinnamon stick broken in half, allspice, pepper and water. Add pears. Bring to a simmer. Cook, turning pears occasionally, until cooked but still firm, about 20 minutes. Remove pears from liquid; transfer to a large bowl.
Raise heat to high; boil cider mixture until reduced to a syrup, about 15 minutes. Discard cinnamon. Pour syrup over pears; refrigerate.
To serve, slice off a sliver from the bottom of each pear so it stands upright. Serves 8.
Nutrition per serving: 147 calories, 1 gram fat, trace saturated fat, 1 gram protein, 48 grams carbohydrate, 8 grams dietary fiber, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 mg sodium. — Stephanie Nielsen, McKay-Dee Hospital Center
E-mail: vphillips@desnews.com