Stepping into La Izalquena is like stepping out of the good ol' U.S. of A. and into Peru, or Colombia, or El Salvador.
Not because of the exotic atmosphere — the ambience can best be described as Spartan strip mall, with bare-bones booths, travel posters and two televisions playing Spanish-language videos (actually, I probably just described a neighborhood restaurant in any of those countries).
But nearly everyone eating at La Izalquena was speaking Spanish — a decided advantage on the night we visited, when our bustling server was a Spanish speaker. And the food is one deliciously authentic surprise after the other.
After we ordered Sprites for the kids and Cokes for ourselves, our server arrived with the kids' drinks but apologetically let us know that they were out of Coke. Instead, she offered two sodas popular in South America, one light pink and apple-flavored, and one a deep-orange "kola champagne." Both were great, a fun change from the usual.
We started with the cebiche de pescado, cool white raw halibut marinated in lemon juice and served over lettuce. It's like nothing so much as a fish salad, with the sour-salty fish brightened by fresh-cut herbs and bitter thin-sliced onions. You may know it as ceviche, but in Peru it's cebiche, a beloved national dish done excellently here.
My husband ordered the "Combo Latino," one of three combination plates at La Izalquena that give a great overview of the menu offerings. This one featured favorites from several nations, like Salvadoran pupusas, comforting round pastries filled with beans, pork and cheese. Also on offer were a tender, delicious tamale elote, sweet corn wrapped in corn meal and steamed, as well as a Venezuelan empanada, which is my new favorite empanada thanks to its huge size, slightly crispy and delicate corn wrapper, and juicy shredded-beef filling. He also enjoyed small bowls of creamy red beans and fresh, zippy jalapeno slaw.
I had the "Combo Peruano," a grouping of Peruvian favorites available only on weekends. It included another, smaller portion of cebiche, as well as a Peruvian tamale that, with its filling of peppers, pork, olives and egg, was wonderfully different than any other tamale I've had. My favorite, though, was the escabeche de pollo, lean shredded chicken in a creamy-smooth, light yellow sauce and served over halved boiled potatoes.
Kids' meals at La Izalquena appear straightforward at first — chicken nuggets or hot dogs. And the chicken is straightforward, though the nuggets are definitely superior to those found at most other places. But my kids were thrilled when the hot dogs arrived cut into one-inch lengths, partially split two ways and pan-fried until the split portions curl back into flowers. There was a slight argument over who got to eat the last one.
La Izalquena offers standard South American desserts like tres leches cake and a superior flan, as well as fruit shakes, which I wish I'd tried. Maybe next time — I'm sure there are plenty more surprises waiting.
Appetizers $4.50-$12, soup $2.90-$6.90, Peruvian food $6.50-$10.50, Venezuelan food $3.50-$8.50, Colombian food $1.50-$14, Salvadoran food $2.50-$4.50, Mexican food $2.50-$9.95, kids' meals $3.50-$3.90, sides $1.25-$4.50, desserts $2-$2.75.
Rating: ***
Where: 2194 W. 3500 South, West Valley
Hours: Daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Payment: Checks, credit cards accepted
Reservations: Accepted
Phone: 973-0768
Stacey Kratz is a freelance writer who reviews restaurants for the Deseret Morning News. E-mail: skratz@desnews.com