PROVO — Sam Hawk means Three Cranes in Korean and, as the name of a restaurant, it sounds as if it could be a lovely place to dine.
Well, the food is interesting and intriguing, but the atmosphere is nothing but a large white room whose walls are crammed with pictures of satisfied customers. If you look carefully, though, you will see some paper prints that feature pen and ink cranes, which makes a small stab at ambience.
The reason for going to Sam Hawk, however, is not for the atmosphere, nor is it for speedy service.
The dishes, however, are well-prepared and interesting, and that fact that I've been back four times is evidence that I'm there for the food.
High on my list is the beef bulgogi. It's a popular meat dish made from thinly sliced meat that has been marinated in a soy puree with sesame oil, garlic and onions. Marinating the meat makes the beef tender and flavorful. It then comes with a plate of lettuce in which to wrap the meat and several tiny dishes filled with goodies to include in the wrap.
There are delicious pieces of potato with a browned soy glaze, bits of egg omelet, bean shoots, a soybean paste (yum), soy beans, rice and kimchi. There is also a small plate of shredded beef, and I'm not quite sure why it's included in a beef dish. If you are not particularly adventurous with new food fare, this is a good one to try. It also comes in chicken — which I found tasty — and pork, which is great for those who like spicy options.
What surprised me was the kimchi, which is a fermentation of vegetables. I've tried it before, and on a list of 10 favorite foods, it comes in around 500th. I have always detested it. But a little in the bulgogi added some nice flavor. In fact, everything except the nearly rock-hard soy beans were appealing.
An appetizer that is hearty enough for a meal is the Korean seafood pizza. It is nothing like pizza, but it is delicious. Shrimp, squid and other seafood is held together in an egg base that is more like a frittata. It is highly recommendable. The pot stickers were too chewy and were almost rubbery, but it is the only dish sampled I found disappointing.
The food is prepared in thick stone bowls, which is one of the reasons for its success.
I tried in vain to reproduce bibim bop, which is beef served with vegetables and rice and topped with a fried egg. At Sam Hawk's, it is delicious with its sprouts, mushrooms, carrots, onions and sesame oil.
The server assures me the secret is the thick stone bowl in which is it cooked, and I think she is right. It is a favorite. And so is this restaurant.
Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at: charlene_winters@byu.edu.