AMERICAN FORK — Rib City Grill, a barbecue house with Southern ribs as its specialty, claims that if you have to pick up a knife to eat their baby back ribs, they will pick up your tab. Well, the ribs I had there did not fall off the bone nor were they quite tender enough to be dealt with without a knife, but they were delicious all the same.
Part of a chain that is just now beginning to expand out of the South, Rib City Grill is a worthy entry into the barbecue market finding a toe hold in Utah County. It's advisable to come early for dinner, because it's clearly a local favorite.
My party started with the jumbo onion rings. They were strictly ordinary and didn't give an inkling of the pleasures to come. I ordered the baby back ribs with shrimp. It's a rib house, but the shrimp was also outstanding, tender and flavorful with a nice crunch. The ribs were quite appetizing but needed the sauces. The sides are the standard fare for barbecues — cole slaw, corn cobs, potatoes. The one standout dish was the sweetly seasoned baked beans. I devoured mine and wanted to barter my garlic toast, baked potato and one of my shrimp pieces for my neighbor's beans. She wasn't interested in negotiations, but I was happy to learn you can buy it by the quart and take it home.
I was perfectly satisfied with my meal, but one of my friends ordered the turkey and ham dinner, and I agree with her assessment that the ham has such a strong smoky essence that it was difficult to taste the ham. The turkey was juicy and thinly shaved and reminded her of the turkey put in sandwiches. She was a little disappointed, and I was almost tempted to share my ribs with her. The definitive word here is "almost." I suggest that if a restaurant bills itself as a rib house and it's your first visit, it's a good idea to stay with the specialty.
One of the highlights was the ebullient server, a woman who defined hospitality. Although the restaurant was crowded, she gave us exceptional service. I recommend the Rib City Grill. Just be sure to ask for Kimberlee.
Rib City Grill
Rating: *** —
Where: 648 E. State, American Fork
Cost: entrees between $8-$19
Reservations not required
Phone: 801-492-1744
Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at: charlene_winters@byu.edu.