NO RESERVATIONS — *** — Catherine Zeta-Jones, Aaron Eckhart, Abigail Breslin; rated PG (vulgarity, mild profanity).

"No Reservations" is an Americanized version of "Mostly Martha," a 2001 comedy-drama from Germany that became an art-house hit in the United States.

That winning, low-key movie remains the superior version of this story, but this Hollywood remake does retain some of that film's charm.

It's also one of the few movies out there that doesn't stoop to low-brow humor and bad-taste elements. The film's humor and drama is sweeter and comes from believable character and story development.

So you can forgive a handful of saccharine moments and an occasional stumble or two.

Catherine Zeta-Jones stars as Kate Armstrong, a hardworking and hot-headed chef at a New York restaurant. She hasn't had a relationship in years and doesn't have much of a life outside her culinary work.

That's all about to change, however. When Kate's sister Christine (Arija Bareikis) dies in an auto accident, Kate suddenly finds herself in charge of her niece, Zoe (Abigail Breslin, from "Little Miss Sunshine").

The hopelessly single Kate has no clue what she's doing with her new charge. And she also has no idea what to do about the new person in her kitchen when Kate's boss (Patricia Clarkson) hires sous chef Nicholas Palmer (Aaron Eckhart) to help while Kate sorts out her personal life. As you might expect, sparks immediately fly.

Sure, this is predictable stuff, and it's not the headiest of material. But it's sort of like cinematic comfort food, something that goes down easily and doesn't leave you with heartburn.

Director Scott Hicks ("Hearts in Atlantis") and first-time screenwriter Carol Fuchs are smart enough not to mess with the story. There are scenes that are basically re-creations of the German film.

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Zeta-Jones is a little too aloof, especially at first, but she becomes warmer and more appealing as the film goes along. Eckhart helps sell their on-screen romance.

The supporting cast is also good. Young Breslin continues to impress, while Bob Balaban is amusing in a brief turn as Kate's therapist.

"No Reservations" is rated PG for a few sexual references and some suggestive language, scattered mild profanity, some brief roughhousing and brief drug content (IV medicines). Running time: 90 minutes.


E-mail: jeff@desnews.com

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