July 1969. Neil Armstrong walked on the moon. The Salt Palace opened downtown, and the radio was playing Henry Mancini's "Love Theme From Romeo and Juliet."
And the Five Alls Restaurant, with its romantic, medieval-castle atmosphere, opened at 1458 S. Foothill Drive.
Since then, it's been the site of hundreds of prom dates, marriage proposals, anniversary dinners and other special nights out. And it's survived, despite the fact that many special-occasion dining destinations of that era are just a memory: The Della Fontana, Bratten's Seafood Grotto, Finn's (although a Finn's descendant has opened another eatery by the same name).
The Five Alls' decor conjures up thoughts of Camelot, with knights in shining armor rescuing fair maidens. The dimly lit interior harks back to Olde England, with brown leather-look tablecloths, lots of dark wood, pewter plates and goblets, and servers in period costume.
Owner Richard Halliday started it with only a few hundred dollars in his pocket. He had several years of experience as a chef's apprentice under Finn Gurholt, owner of Finn's, and recipes and ideas gleaned from travels abroad.
"I was fortunate in finding an interested audience almost right away," says Halliday. "It was challenging, even nerve-wracking, but there was always a strong sense of satisfaction, too."
He learned to be a jack-of-all trades: chef, decorator, baker, carpenter, host and craftsman.
"Each change and addition to the business was a learning experience, even the few that didn't pan out well," he added.
Longtime patrons will tell you it hasn't changed much. This is not your trendy sports bar or the latest in cutting-edge cuisine. The menu tends to stick with classics such as steaks and seafood. Signature dishes are Chicken Kiev and Filet Oscar, a filet mignon topped with crab meat, asparagus and bearnaise sauce.
The Five Alls harks back to the days when dining was an event, not an eat-and-run kind of thing. The meals seem pricey — $18-$58, but each includes five courses.
There's the Scottish meatball and breadsticks with clam dip; then soup or salad or fruit; next the entree; and finally a parfait dessert and macaroon for the road.
"We've tried to change a little with the times; we put a vegetarian plate on the menu, and a few lighter things like Halibut Oscar," said Anne Halliday, Richard's daughter, who is now the manager. "But we do stick to what's been working all these years."
And what about the name? The story is found on the restaurant's Web site, www.fivealls.com.
"According to a historical 17th and 18th century British tradition, the signs on many public houses depicted a humorous division of society into various categories. Each was portrayed in a separate visual panel.
"The first panel represented the king: "I rule all"; the second, a parson: "I pray for all"; the third, a lawyer: "I plead for all;" the fourth, a soldier: "I fight for all"; and the fifth panel, a taxpayer: "I pay for all."
Hence, the Five Alls.
Here's the recipe for the Five Alls' classic Chicken Kiev.
Chicken Kiev
For each serving, you need:
2-3 ounces butter
About 1/8 teaspoon granulated garlic, or to taste
Chopped parsley
1 boneless double chicken breast, or a single breast weighing a total of about 10 ounces, fully trimmed
Flour, enough for dredging
Salt and pepper to taste
1 egg, beaten
Finely ground unflavored bread crumbs, enough to coat the chicken
Hot oil for frying
Melted butter
To make spiced butter, combine softened (not melted) butter with granulated garlic to taste. Mix in a small amount of chopped parsley. Chill until ready for use.
Sandwich the raw chicken breast between 2 sheets of plastic wrap (or place inside a clear plastic bag) and proceed as though tenderizing, with a broad-faced mallet. Flatten the flesh beginning from the center and working toward the edges in all directions. The meat must be thin, especially at the edges, but not broken or damaged.
Remove from the plastic with the chicken's smooth side (outside) down. Place a generous dollop (2-3 ounces) of spiced butter in the center. Take the heaviest edge of the chicken, fold it over the butter and tuck it under itself. Continue rolling while tucking left and right until you have achieved a tightly closed roll. To achieve best results. chill the chicken in a refrigerator for at least 2 hours (overnight is not too long).
To cook, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Preheat a good frying oil to about 375 degrees, making sure the oil is deep enough to immerse the breasts. Remove the chicken breasts from the refrigerator and dredge one at a time in flour, spiced with salt and pepper to taste (add a little garlic powder if desired) and dust off any excess.
Then roll in the beaten egg wash, taking care to coat completely. Next, place in a bath of finely ground, unflavored breadcrumbs. Place gently into the hot oil. Cook until browned but not dark, and turn over into a pie tin or cake pan so the smooth side is up. Brush with melted butter. Roast in the oven until finished (interior temperature of 165 minimum.) Serve immediately, or hold briefly in a warmer. Serve with hollandaise sauce and a sprinkle of chopped parsley before presentation.
e-mail: vphillips@desnews.com