BULLFROG — The water level at Lake Powell is up roughly 30 feet from where it was six months ago. Visitation, too, appears to be rising ever so slightly.
Which isn't something many destination resort areas can claim.
Only the regular visitor would probably know about the rising levels. As always, there are beaches and bays to visit and endless waterways to use.
Old beaches, however, are now covered and new ones are being reached. Water now goes deeper into canyons and, as is always the case, the shoreline is changing.
Over the past four years the water level, proving naysayers wrong once again, has been steadily climbing. Levels hit a low elevation of 3,556 feet, roughly 150 feet down, several years back. It is now at 3,640 or 60 feet below "full pool," which, said Steve Ward, director of public relations for Lake Powell Resorts and Marinas, "is really on the lower end of what is normal for this lake. We've been at this level many times and seen it go higher."
At its current level, the "Cut" — which offers more convenient access up-lake from Wahweap — is open and officials at the National Park Service say it should remain open for the remainder of the year.
When water levels were lower and the Cut was impassable, boaters had to follow the main channel around Antelope Point, which added an additional 12 miles or anywhere from 45 minutes to more than an hour traveling time up-lake.
The Cut was flooded with enough water to allow passage last summer.
As far as visitation goes, numbers are down from the all-time highs, but Brian Sweatland, public information officer for the NPS, said counts show figures for June of this year are up 1.5 percent. Consensus among those serving visitors at the marinas and in Page, Ariz., gateway to the lake, is that July was also strong. NPS is currently compiling those numbers.
Total count for 2008 to the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, aka Lake Powell, was close to 2 million visitors. Along with visitors from around the nation, including a strong contingent from Utah and Colorado, Sweatland also noted, "We get a lot of visitors from out of the country who have heard about Lake Powell, most notably Canada, Germany, United Kingdom, France and Switzerland.
"We had a large number of visitors from Europe last year, and it seems to be the same way this year. So far we've had a good summer. Visitations have been steady," he said.
There has also been increased visitation to Rainbow Bridge National Monument, located roughly midway between Halls Crossing and Wahweap. Part of the reason is the opening of the Cut that has made access more convenient. Another reason is the rising water has shortened the hiking distance from boat docks to the bridge. Last year, it was about a mile and a quarter one way to the bridge. This year, it's about a three-quarters of a mile hike.
In 2007, roughly 81,600 people visited the bridge. In 2008, more than 95,500 people visited.
Lake Powell still remains one of Utah's most popular recreational spots, right at the top along with Zion National Park.
The simple fact that the lake has more shoreline, because of the canyons and bays, than the West Coast, and runs for nearly 200 miles means there is no limit to the number of beaches or to the recreational opportunities, which would include things like hiking, boating, exploring, camping, water sports and, one of the newest, kayaking.
Still the most popular accommodation along the shorelines of the lake is the houseboat, which, over the years, has evolved from a shell of a home into a plush hotel, said Ward.
"There are those who choose the basic boat," he noted, "but not many. People enjoy comforts, the little things, so our newer boats are pretty luxurious and very affordable."
The most popular of the luxury crafts is the 75-foot Excursion, which comes complete with hot tub, flat-screen TV with home-theater system, five staterooms with queen-size beds, air conditioning, a gourmet kitchen and sleeps up to 20 people.
And, for ultimate comfort, the concessionaire offers "meals on board." Visitors can pre-order meals for houseboat trips and have them specially delivered, in special containers, prior to departure.
Ward also noted a rising interest in renting the smaller boats, "especially by European visitors looking to see more of the lake."
Rental rates for houseboats range from $3,400 for a week for a 46-foot boat to $12,485 for the Odyssey during prime time. Rates are lower in the spring and fall.
Those bringing their own small craft to the lake are currently under strict guidelines since the menacing zebra or quagga mussels were found south of Lake Powell in Lake Mead.
Boat ramps around the reservoir — at Wahweap, Bullfrog, Halls Crossing, State Line, Antelope Point and Lone Rock are closed between the hours of 9 p.m. and 4:30 a.m. The ramp at Hite is not being closed.
Rangers at the entrance and on-ramps during open hours must certify that all watercraft — canoes, kayaks and rafts — are free of the mussels. Vehicles attached to the watercraft must display a "Mussel Free" sticker. For more information on the procedure, visit the Web site at www.nps.gov/glca.
The reason for such restrictions is that boats that have been in waters where these crustaceans have been found must be screened, washed with scalding-hot water and decontaminated.
Once in a water, the mussels are extremely prolific and form into cement-hard colonies that can clog pipes, threaten fishing and foul boats, "so we're taking all necessary precautions," said Wayne Gustaveson, lake biologist for the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources. Once in a water, they are impossible to remove.
Aside from ramp restrictions, five of the six marinas around the lake offer full services, including on-water fueling and a marina store. At Wahweap, Halls and Bullfrog, services include service stations, restaurants and lodging. There is an in-land service station and store at Hite.
As for fishing, Gustaveson said it remains good.
"As long as you look for the signs ... (for striped bass look for) splashes starting about 6 a.m. when feeding begins for school fish. Look towards the rising sun and look for water being splashed in the air or fish rolling. Get there as soon as possible and cruise the area and troll a lure on fast idle. The feeding behavior continues until about 7 a.m.," he said.
For the next hour, the fish form small boils in slick-rock coves. These fish are very aggressive and hit lures tossed in the feeding area. Boils, he said, continue until around 10 a.m. and begin again around 4 p.m. Stripers are in the three- to five-pound range.
"Angling for other fish species remains good to excellent, but it is overshadowed by the exciting surface action provided by surface striper fishing," he added.
For more details on fishing conditions, visit his Web site at www.wayneswords.com.
It has been said in the past that the lake would never fill again, but it has. It has also been suggested that people would stop visiting the lake, but they haven't.
Along with being one of Utah's most popular vacation spots, it is also one of its most beautiful. And, as one visitor, explained, "It remains a place where families and friends can be together, have fun and really bond."
Lake Powell fast facts
Water elevation: 3,640 feet
Low mark: 3,556 feet
Full pool: 3,700 feet
Shoreline: 2,000 miles
Length: 186 miles
Distance from Salt Lake City to Bullfrog: 298 miles
Number of major canyons: 90
Ranking: second largest manmade lake in U.S.
Average summer temperature: 90s to 100s
Average water temperature in August: high 70s
Glen Canyon headquarters: 928-608-6200
Wahweap: 928-645-1070
Bullfrog: 435-684-3000
Boat reservation: 928-645-1111