Named after one of Utah's first woman entrepreneurs, Mary Judge, the stately Judge Building is one of the city's more distinguished landmarks. Its ornate lobby and distinctive exterior embellishments symbolize a bygone era along Salt Lake City's Broadway.
As the Block 57 project proceeds across the street, observers of the cityscape must be hopeful that the proposed development will help restore a part of downtown that has long been in need of vitality.The Judge Cafe has contributed recently to some of that vitality with a colorful renovation of its own. It recently expanded into an adjacent art gallery, adding much needed space and some visibility along Broadway. Lunch and breakfast patrons should have a front row seat for one of the city's more ambitious and long sought after projects.
Regular customers, though, can still find comfort in the tiled dining area in the back, either seated at the cozy counter or at one of the small tables. The contrasting decor reflects somewhat the changes taking place around town. Color photographs of fresh fruit and vegetables share the spotlight with dozens of basketball shoes, autographed by Jazz and other NBA stars who have visited the Judge Cafe.
On our two visits, one for a delicious Saturday brunch and the other a late lunch, we enjoyed the new airy space of the addition, along with the kind of consistent cuisine that has made the Judge a favorite eating and gathering place for more than 15 years. The gallery feeling added a sense of transition about the decor, as if more things are going to be added, like the neighborhood.
Sandwiches, named after the long lost hotels of downtown Salt Lake City, are the mainstay of the lunch menu. Served with a plate of chips and a choice of either homemade soup or green salad, they come on either sour dough, whole wheat or pumpernickel buns. Prices range between $3.50 and $4.50.
I enjoyed the New Windsor, lean pastrami and swiss heated on pumpernickel. While the bun could have been a bit more substantial, the rest of the ingredients were very good. The Manhattan clam chowder was also fresh and flavorful.
Other sandwiches include the New Grand, thin slices of ham and swiss, served hot (Thurl Bailey's favorite); the Kenyon, roast beef served either cold or as French dip; the Wilson, fresh oven roasted turkey breast with avocado; the vegetarian New-house; along with grilled sandwiches like the Bristol, a BLT, and the Utah, grilled chicken topped with ham and swiss. Several salads, soup and salad combination, a vegetarian and "waist watchers" platters are also available.
Reflecting some of the changing times and tastes, the Judge Cafe serves calzone, filled with Italian sausage, mushrooms, a blend of cheeses and tomato sauce. The latter was somewhat left out on our order, though it didn't detract from the calzone's overall taste and texture.
The soft shell taco supreme, a large folded flour tortilla filled with spicy ground meet, diced tomatoes, shredded lettuce, melted cheese and guacamole dressing, was also a pleasant and filling choice.
The Mexican potato, a baked potato stuffed with seasoned ground meat and topped with cheese and a choice of sour cream, guacamole, salsa and fresh vegetables is available along with a taco burger and a sloppy Joe. Each of these is priced from $4.50 to $4.75. Several daily specials round out the menu choice.
Within the past month, the Judge Cafe has been open on Saturday and Sunday, offering tempting brunch choices, including omelets, huevos rancheros, linguica (Portuguese sausage) with eggs, special crepes, blintzes with blackberries, turkey, bacon and swiss salad, and, our favorite, The Alley, ground beef, onion, green pepper, potato, topped with eggs and melted cheese. Homemade muffins and freshly baked sweet rolls add to the breakfast and brunch offerings. Prices range from $3 to $5.
The Judge Cafe represents a trend on the other end of Main Street that many hope will continue - good things getting better.
Rating: *** 1/2
The Judge Cafe, 8 E. Broadway, 531-0917. Open for breakfast and lunch, Monday through Friday, 7 a.m. until 2:45 p.m. Brunch served Saturday and Sunday, 9 a.m. until 2 p.m. Accepts major credit cards and check with guarantee card.