What happens to a car that has been "totaled" by accident or disaster?

It may, in fact, be simply sold off for scrap metal. Or, if the condition warrants, it may be rebuilt and sold as a salvage vehicle.There is nothing illegal about rebuilding and reselling vehicles that have been declared a total loss by an insurance company due to collision, flood, fire or other causes. But there are legal requirements that the buyer be told he is buying a vehicle has been rebuilt.

"Under Utah law, the seller has to tell the buyer that it's a rebuilt-restored vehicle, and the seller has to show the buyer the title, which identifies it as a salvage vehicle," said Jay Fackrell, director of Utah's Motor Vehicle Enforcement Division.

Problems with salvage vehicles have cropped up in recent weeks. "Some sellers have discovered that if a person finances a vehicle, the buyer never sees the title until the loan is paid off," he says. Only then do they see the "salvage" demarcation on the title - and by then it is too late.

Fackrell says his investigators have also been finding that some sellers have been attempting to circumvent the legal requirements of disclosing the vehicle's salvage history by simply telling buyers that the vehicles have been "restored" - without mentioning that they were salvage vehicles. That can leave a false impression with the buyer that the vehicle has been restored to a new condition.

Fackrell says that his investigators have discovered about 400 salvage vehicles being brought to Utah and sold each month. Through the state computer system, his office can identify all salvage vehicles that are sold, he says. His investigators are contacting Utahns who have purchased these vehicles to determine whether disclosure requirements were met. If not, he says, criminal charges will be filed.

Fackrell said there are two major concerns when people unknowingly buy a vehicle that has been "totaled" and rebuilt:

- Monetary loss. A salvage vehicle has a greatly reduced resale value. If people don't know that is what they are getting, they may be paying more than the car is worth.

- Safety. If a rebuilder is not skilled, is careless or intentionally does only cosmetic work to make a vehicle salable, it can represent a serious safety hazard to the driver and passengers.

Fackrell has seen a salvage vehicle that literally broke in two while it was being driven down the highway. The vehicle frame had been cut in half and was spot-welded. But the mechanic never went back and completed the weld. Another common problem is a steering component that is so severely bent that the wheels can't be realigned.

On the other hand, a salvage vehicle can be a good deal - if the buyer knows what he is getting. The price can be right. And if the rebuilding process has been done with care, the safety problems can be minimal.

"We use salvage vehicles for many of our undercover cars, we get such a good deal," says Fackrell.

But, he says, you should not buy a salvage vehicle without having a mechanic check it out for you. A good mechanic can tell what kind of a rebuilding job has been done. "All he has to do is put it on a lift, and he can usually tell immediately whether it's a salvage vehicle."

Other tips for buyers:

-Ask to see the title of a vehicle you're considering buying. If the dealer says the title is at the bank, drive to the bank and look at it. If the dealer balks at showing you the title, be suspicious.

-If the dealer says it is not a salvage vehicle, tell him to put it in writing.

-Be wary if the title of the vehicle is from Wyoming. Sweetwater County, Wyo., does not have a "salvage" brand on its title, so some sellers will "wash" titles by registering them there and then sell the vehicle with a Wyoming title without disclosing the vehicle's history.

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Shopping for the right car

There are several good reasons for buying a used car - price not the least among them. But whenever you shop for a used car, be sure to take a couple of items with you: care and common sense.

Approach every car with caution. Remember that the previous owner had some reason for getting rid of the car. It may be just that he wanted a new car, or it may be that the car was practically worn out and required major, costly repairs to make it both safe and dependable.

Another rule to keep in mind, says the U.S. Department of Transportation, is that you seldom get more than you pay for, as far as used car purchase is concerned - but you can easily get less than you pay for if you're not careful. If you think you're getting a good used car that is "dirt cheap," you may just be buying expensive troubles.

Before you buy a used car, be sure you know whether it is covered by warranty or whether it comes "as is." Also check the odometer to see if it has a figure that seems in keeping with the condition of the car. (It is illegal to change odometer readings on used cars, and a few years ago there were some major problems in the state in that area. But odometer fraud seems to be under control now, says Jay Fackrell, director of Utah's Motor Vehicle Enforcement Division.)

Here are some other rules that can help you avoid problems with used cars:

- Don't buy the car if you're refused a test drive with you at the wheel or if you're refused a request to let your mechanic check the car at his own place of business.

- Get any and all promises for adjustments and repairs in writing and signed by the person in charge before you buy.

- Watch out for little tricks that can mask the true condition of the car: painting tires to make them look new, installing seat covers to hide torn upholstery, replacing a new battery with an old one (look for a date on the battery that may tell how old it is), removing an erratically worn tire from the front and placing it in the trunk to mask a front-end problem (always check the tire in the trunk).

- Be patient. Don't be in a hurry to buy the first car that looks good. Be curious and observant.

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Used car inspection checklist

When you shop for a used car, you may find the following checklist helpful. Make sure you or your mechanic check for cracks, leaks, breaks, abnormal noises, and mission or inoperable parts in thesystems of the car listed below.

Frame and body: Is the frame straight and solid?

Engine: Is there excessive oil leakage? Are the belts in place? Is the block or head cracked? Is the exhaust normal?

Transmission and drive shaft: Is the transmission fluid level proper and seepage normal? Is the transmission solid? Is the drive shaft in good shape?

Differential: Does the differential operate quietly without excessive seepage? Is it solid?

Cooling system: Does the water pump function Properly? Is there any leakage, including any from the radiator?

Electrical system: Does the battery leak? Do the alternator , generator, battery, and starter work properly?

Fuel system: Is there any visible leakage?

Accessories: Do gauges and warning devices work? Do the air conditioner, heater, and defroster work?

Brake system: do the warning lights work? Is the brake pedal firm under pressure? Does the vehicle stop in a straight line? Check the hoses, drum, and lining for soundness. Are structural and mechanical parts solid?

Steering system: Is there too much free play in the steering? Are the front wheels aligned properly, Check the power unit belts for cracks or slippage and the unit fluid levels.

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Suspension system: Are the ball joint seals intact? Are the structural parts solid and straight? Are springs and shocks properly connected? Check shock absorbers for leakage and loose mountings.

Tires: Check the tread for depth of wear, the tire sizes for matching, and for any other obvious damage.

Wheels: Look for any visible cracks, damage, or repairs. Check for loose or missing mounting bolts.

Exhaust system: Check for leakage and exhaust smoke when the engine is running.

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