A steaming cup, surrounded by coffee bean strings, adorns the logo of the Firenze Cafe and Market, open barely a month on south West Temple. Espresso is also bannered, outlined by the festive red, green and white of the Italian flag. Italian foods receive scant attention on the advertisements that dot local media.
But make no mistake about Firenze's kitchen. This exquisitely appointed market and eatery not only has the flair of a New York upper Eastside eatery in the front but the quality of cuisine served from the back of the house has a panache that may make it a local trend setter when it comes to Italian dining.Certainly the colorful cornucopia of imported delicacies including Perugina confections, Sapori cookies and delicate decanters of extra virgin olive oil lining nooks and crannies of the shelves, will engage eager and curious customers. The same applies to the tempting desserts, salads and specialty meats and cheeses that hold court in the deli case.
Our eyes were riveted to the blackboard menu for dinner. (Since our weekend dinner of a few weeks ago, full service is now available, sparing patrons a trip to the rear to order. Yet we were glad for a chance to peek in the small but well-equipped kitchen. The sizzle of pans being deglazed added to our anticipation.)
We chose one appetizer, two of the four entree specials, as well as two of the sandwiches described on the adjacent panini list. Even with a couple of the authentic Italian sodas, complete with cream, we had room for two of the desserts. Each preparation reflected care and creativity.
The fennel cured salmon ($6.95), perched atop a blend of chopped cucumbers with a mint vinaigrette dressing was simple yet wonderful. Garlic-rubbed toasted bread triangles were the perfect vehicle for transporting the cool sliced salmon to the palate.
The pan-seared salmon ($11.50), sauced just right with a saute of chopped tomato, garlic, fresh basil and white wine, was served atop aromatic garlic mashed potatoes and a mound of garlic spinach, barely blanched and sauteed with garlic and olive oil. Two duckling legs and thighs with a crispy skin and Mirepoix sauce (also $11.50), a Madeira-based sauce relying on vegetables and thyme, came with gorgonzola polenta. This rich and flavorful version of a standard northern Italian staple was wonderful; it certainly explains how the conquering Roman Legions were nourished by this simple yet versatile dish.
Each entree came with a lovely blend of baby greens that included arugula, raddichio and endive. The house basil dijon vinaigrette was perfect. A simple spicy Italian sausage sandwich was also very good; the thin slices of provolone, pepperoni and capaccola, on the combination with crusty bread, while good seemed pricy at $5.50. Either a pasta salad or green salad are a dollar or two extra with the sandwiches.
The list is lengthy, but one caught our attention. Named after one of the chefs, "Brian's Favorite" ($6.95) consists of home- roasted turkey, pepperoni, provolone, Roma tomatoes, roasted garlic puree and balsamic vinegar on a crispy baguette.
Other items on the menu include linguini with meatballs or homemade sausage, around $9; breast of chicken with polenta and sauteed eggplant with Marsala mushroom sauce; sauteed shrimp with garlic creams sauce with brunoise of roasted red peppers; and other nightly specials.
Both the teramisu and charlotte russe desserts were also nicely crafted and delicious.
At first glance, Firenze appears to cater to a downtown crowd more accustomed to neighboring up-scale hotels and restaurants. But locals who value quality and innovation will also be satisfied by the kitchen's perfectionist approach to presentation and preparation.
Rating: * * * * 1/2
Firenze Market and Cafe, 358 S. West Temple, 532-1055. Open from 7 a.m. until 11 p.m., Monday through Friday; from 8 a.m. until 11 p.m. on Saturday; Sunday, 8 a.m. until 7 p.m. Accepts most major credit cards and local check with guarantee card. Adjacent off-street parking.