The restaurant industry is fraught with ironies, not unlike today's society. Vegetarian entrees continue to increase on today's menus alongside the lengthy listing of fancy desserts. Death by chocolate seems to be as much a desired state as un-clogged arteries. Anti-beef protesters target McDonald's because the giant chain is increasing the size of its burgers; meanwhile, upscale steak houses show hefty gains with an equally upscale and educated clientele. Contradictions like these do more than tweak the curiosity of today's consumer.
Not surprisingly, we found ourselves drawn to the Ruby River Steak House for a recent weekend foray. While the excursion was tempered somewhat by our inclinations toward Jeremy Rifkin's predictions of a cattle-caused ecological disaster, duty also called. Perhaps Ruby River would answer my most oft posed query, "Where can I get a really good steak in this town?" And like many others who gobble ground turkey and oatmeal at home, we do order a steak or Heimlich-size slab of prime rib in a restaurant, an appealing indulgence, a guilty pleasure.Even walking up to the entrance through the parking lot, it is clear that Ruby River is a sophisticated and well-organized operation. Country western music plays outside the doorway, setting a cowboy flavor right as we slide out of the saddle of our horsepower driven mini-van.
The interior, lined with rough finished wood, has about the same light one would expect at blazing campfire. And glitzy cowboy boots sparkle along a divider that separates the bar and waiting area from the cozy booths that line the interior. Slick Ruby River accessories (bolo ties, sweat shirts, for example) are for sale near the entry, reinforcing the concept for potential franchisees as well as aspiring urban cowboys.
Seduced by all the trappings of the sanitized Western ambience, we quickly got into the spirit, perusing a bill of fare that features appetizers like the Buffalo Bill Cody chicken wings ($5.95). The original Buffalo wings were named after Buffalo, N.Y., famous for long winters and the birthplace of Buffalo Bob, to say nothing of the Anchor Bar, which first conceived of these spicy little treats dunked in blue cheese dressing and accompanied with celery sticks. Our serving was spicy and ample, though probably institutional in origin rather than homemade.
The Browning onion ($4.95), a deep-fried onion arrayed for picking apart and dunking in a modified fry sauce, was a bit more original and appealing. Perhaps the famous arms manufacturers in Ogden would appreciate the reference. The smoked trout ($5.95) served with sourdough toast, diced Bermuda onion and cream cheese was also a nice, though somewhat salty, dish.
Other appetizers include coconut beer battered shrimp ($5.95); Winchester cheese fries ($3.95); bronc buster's bodacious bread ($3.95), toasted and topped with garlic, other herbs and parmesan cheese; and shrimp cocktail ($6.95). Of three side orders, we tried the sauteed mushrooms ($1.95), hot but rather bland.
We sampled six of the dozen or so entrees on the beefy bill of fare, each accompanied by warm sourdough bread, green dinner salad, and a "jacketed" yam, baked potato or fries. The salads were very good; the Caesar especially aromatic. The most curious touch is the deep-fried breading that surrounds the potatoes, each very large, hot and fluffy. The yam, despite the jacket, which annoyed some of our group more than others, was oozing with a flavorful cinnamon butter.
Except for the prime rib (12 oz. for $12.95), which was served medium rare as ordered, the other beef entrees, including the ribeye ($15.95), 24 oz. Porterhouse ($19.95) and filet ($14.95) were each cooked medium well, not the medium rare as requested. Still the marinade and seasonings used by the kitchen came through, and the miscue was compensated for by complimentary (and very good, incidentally) key lime pie desserts. Other than the kitchen's mistake, the service, even without the dessert offer, was professional and personable.
A ranch trout ($9.95), coated with ranch dressing and sprinkled with garlic, white pepper and grilled, was prepared as expected, moist and nicely seasoned.
One of our party familiar with the mechanics of the restaurant game lamented that with all the efforts in the front of the house, equal energy could be expended in the back. This could include searching out Eastern feedlot rather than range-fed local beef, often a bit tougher, and thicker cuts, rather than the 3/4-inch slices we sampled.
Other entrees include petite filet ($12.95), two cuts of New York steak ($14.95 or $16.95), 18 oz. t-bone ($15.95), baby back ribs ($12.95), sauteed shrimp ($12.95), chicken breast smothered with cheese, bacon, mushrooms ($10.95), broiled chicken breast with tarragon ($9.95), and grilled chicken Caesar ($7.95).
Fresh seafood specials are also offered along with the notation that special dietary needs will be accommodated by the kitchen.
Dessert choices range from the key lime pie to fruit cobbler and ice cream, chocolate brownie with hot fudge, (each $2.95) and an enormous mud pie with almond roca and vanilla ice cream with a peanut butter layer, covered with hot fudge ($3.50).
I will continue to search out our town's "best" steak, despite the predictions of environmental perdition; but should Ruby River Steak House adjust its basics, it may be as close as any around to answering the question, "Where can I get a really good steak in this town?"
Rating: ***
Ruby River Steak House, 435 So. 700 East, 359-3355. Open for dinner, seven days a week, starting at 4 p.m. until 10 p.m., Sunday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Lunch hours by mid-May. No reservations accepted. Accept check with guarantee card and major credit cards.