Here we were, amid the splendor of Little Cottonwood Canyon, surrounded by a boisterous Saturday night crowd, complete with the singing of happy birthdays for unknown diners. Even the funky ski paraphernalia that lined the interior couldn't distract us. There was only the sound of "oohs" and "aahs" coming from our booth. There could have been an avalanche, a forest fire or other calamitous occurrence, and we would have been oblivious.
This focus and concentration was somewhat unusual considering that the five of us have fairly well-traveled and educated palates, having savored meals from San Francisco to New York and beyond. Our reverent silence threw our attentive and self-assured waitress. Only moments before we had been engaging in snappy repartee. Now we were quietly rhapsodizing about our entrees in hushed tones of awe. "Is everything all right?" she queried with genuine concern. We all nodded in agreement, celebrating our wondrous dinner.I may have been put off from visiting the Shallow Shaft for a few years because of the impression that Australian cuisine was the specialty, which a cynical friend described as "mutton, shark and lager." That was several years ago after longtime owner Lyle Waldron called it quits and other owners took over this unadorned eatery that has been in other incarnations a ski shop, pizza joint and steak house.
But for several years, executive chef Timothy Garling has been casting a spell over satisfied diners who consistently make the trek up to Alta to enjoy a cuisine that blends regional and Continental preparations and ingredients with an impressive flair.
Our introduction to Garling's mastery started with warm, light rolls, a peppery vichyssoise and two delectable appetizers. The smoked salmon and black bean quesadilla ($7.95), was a maze of mesquite smoked salmon, black beans, roasted chiles, corn, tomato salsa, layered between a flour tortilla and garnished with sour cream and avocado. The crab stuffed mushroom caps ($5.95) were served hot in a garlicky butter sauce.
Our dinner salads consisted of mixed greens and were adorned with a bright crimson leaf of raddichio. Both the bleu cheese and light herb vinaigrette dressings were flavorful, the bleu cheese especially robust and rich with cheese.
We sampled five of the entrees including one of the pizza specialties, which may have been one of the best pizzas we have ever tried. The crust was perfectly thin and chewy, the tomato sauce not overpowering, and toppings for the Greek version ($14.95) consisted of pitted Greek olives, marinated artichoke hearts, onions, feta cheese, Greek peppers and extra garlic.
Other pizza specials include pesto; Bonze's avalanche, with riccoto, parmesan and asiago cheeses; North of the Border, with mesquite chicken breast, black beans, roasted chiles, pine nuts, tomatoes, onions and mushrooms; seafood with fresh scallops, smoked oysters and shrimp; Alta style deep dish with traditional ingredients; and a vegetarian. Prices range for the 14-inch pizzas range between $13 and $16.
The other four entrees each had a unique character and memorable flavor. The grilled marinated chicken breast ($13.95) was juicy and redolent with white wine, olive oil and herbs, deliciously complimented by a kiwi tomato salsa. The linguini with smoked chicken breast ($13.95) came with a spicy cream sauce accented with cascabael chiles and sun dried tomatoes. The mornay sauce was considerably more tame with the seafood pasta ($14.95) and the tender portions of fresh scallops and shrimp were perfectly prepared.
The highlight of the meal was the recommended rack of lamb, arrayed perfectly pink topped with rose pepper corns and garnished with sprigs of aromatic fresh rosemary. The lamb was offset by a luxurious ancho chile sauce and accompanied by a spritz of yellow squash, florette of broccoli, slices of sauteed zucchini and rice pilaf. The plates were each colorful, appealing to the eye as well as the palate.
Other entrees included fresh sockeye salmon with lemon herb butter and citrus salsa ($17.95); fresh scallops sauteed with mushrooms, bacon, cream and fresh roasted chiles ($14.95); broiled New York steak ($17.95); New York steak Neptune served with lemon butter broiled prawns and bernaise sauce ($24.95); and linguini al pesto ($12.95).
Each of the homemade desserts reflected considerable care and skill. An apple spice cake with carmel sauce was rich and sweet; the chocolate torte with raspberry-mint cloulis less sweet but truly deserving of its name, "death by chocolate;" but the crowd pleaser was a knockout homemade chocolate ice cream laced with hazel nuts and bourbon, resplendent with a delicate wafer. Each dessert costs $4.95.
First time visitors to the Shallow Shaft should not be put off by the breezy and funky decor or the fact that pizza is a featured menu item. Gourmet cuisine that is both creative and memorable is the true hallmark of the Shallow Shaft.
Rating: * * * * *
The Shallow Shaft, Alta. 742-2177. Summer hours: Thursday through Monday, 6 p.m. until 10 p.m. Closed in early spring and late fall. Call ahead for winter hours. Reservations recommended. Accepts most credit cards and check with guarantee card.