A fire damaged the kitchen in mid-March, but it wasn't more than a week or two before this cavernous basement restaurant accented with Christmas wreaths and red bows was open again. Downtown regulars breathed a sigh of relief. Would an institution like the Red Apple succumb to the forces of nature? What about the trendy pub scene or fast food monopoly standardizing just about everything from french fries to extruded meat patties?
I was told that the Red Apple has been open for 22 years, certainly a longevity record of sorts considering the volatility of today's dining out scene. Although it was my first visit, I quickly sensed why it had maintained its reputation as a reliable and favored lunch place.The service seemed to treat each of its customers as old friends with a kind of folksiness that was not overly familiar. It was an interesting contrast to the athletic exuberance of a lot of newer places where you can almost hear the cadence of the clicking bike gears as they wheel around their trays of trendy cuisine. I welcomed being called "Hon."
The soup, salad and sandwich menu is familiar as well, though there are some nice additions with daily specials. During our recent visit these included Swiss steak, taco salad, quiche and - a comfort food to escape from the press of downtown office life - raspberry Jell-O with mixed fruit. None of these or anything else on the menu costs more than $5.
The chicken pot pie special was baked with a fresh crust and served hot. It was obviously homemade with a nice gravy and plenty of vegetables and chunks of chicken. The only problem with the roast chicken club sandwich was a slightly soft bun that even when toasted couldn't hold the grilled chicken breast, melted Swiss cheese, strips of bacon, lettuce and tomato, when assembled as a sandwich. It also needed a shot of Grey Poupon mustard to liven up the flavor.
A fresh green salad with the pot pie and a side order of the cream soup of the day, navy bean with ham, also displayed an attention to the basics. On another visit we will have to try the chicken noodle, described on the menu as one of the "great soups of the Western world," a claim most grandmothers would support. Another claim about the Red Apple's apple crisp ("We do this better than almost anyone,") would have been true had they warmed the serving.
Other items on the menu include a stuffed avocado or tomato with tuna or chicken salad ($3.75); sandwich choices include ham and Swiss, French dip, grilled Reuben, various clubs, steak sandwich with sauteed mushrooms and onion, pita, along with entrees (all around $4) such as beef bourguignon, meat loaf, hot turkey sandwich, teriyaki chicken, steamed veggies and Texas-style chili. An extensive salad bar is also available, along with soup or salad or sandwich splits.
Recent studies have shown that indeed "an apple a day" can lessen some health risks including heart disease. Like the fresh apple that is served with each meal at the Red Apple, certain time-honored adages and perhaps restaurants too offer remedies for the inconsistencies of today's world.
Rating: * * *
The Red Apple, 30 E. 100 South, 532-1853. Open for lunch, 11 a.m. until 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Accepts checks with guarantee card and major credit cards. Carry out and delivery service available.