For Stephen P. Leatherman, life's a beach.
Leatherman, who has a Ph.D. in environmental sciences, is also known as "Dr. Beach." He is the director of the Laboratory for Coastal Research at the University of Maryland and has set foot (a bare one, we presume) on virtually every beach in the country to study erosion.In 1991, he cast aside his academic regalia long enough to compile a list of the best beaches in the United States. It was not published for the hallowed halls of academia but for students of sun, sand and surf. It was such a success he has issued one every year since then.
A number of publications including Time, Newsweek, National Geographic and Conde Nast Traveller, not to mention the Deseret News, have quoted him.
Factors he considers include air and water quality, the number of sunny days a year, midday air temperature, water temperature, whether the sand is soft, whether there are ticks, mosquitoes or biting flies, whether it's noisy, whether it's safe (are there pickpockets?), and whether it's scenic.
West Coast beaches are not among Leatherman's top 20. "They tend to have colder water, big waves and strong currents. They're wonderful for surfing, but they're more dangerous for children and people who aren't great swimmers," he told us during a phone interview.
Southern California beaches, which have relatively warm water compared to beaches in the north (but colder water than what'll you'll find at the top 20 beaches), are too crowded to make the list.
"I spoke to a lifeguard on Venice Beach (in Los Angeles) and he said, `Isn't this a well-kept secret? Don't put Venice Beach on your survey.' I asked him how many people he thought came to Venice and Santa Monica beaches on a hot, summer weekend. He said `probably a million or two.'
"You have to step over bodies and boom boxes on your way to the water," said Leatherman.
Utahns will be pleased to know that West Coast beaches do well when it comes to natural beauty. "The scenery is spectacular in a lot of places because there are high cliffs. They give you a nice backdrop and vantage point to look down to the water," he said.
Among his favorite West Coast spots:
- Santa Barbara Beach in California.
- Sunset Bay Beach near the town of Coos Bay, Ore. To get an eyeful of beautiful Oregon beaches, he suggested driving U.S. 101, which takes you along the coast. "Oregon beaches have great campgrounds. You can't camp on East Coast beaches."
- Shishi Beach in Olympic National Park, Wash. "It's No. 1 on my wilderness beach survey. Washington has the most wilderness beaches in the country." Shishi Beach is about an hour's hike from the trailhead. Along the way you might spot an eagle, an elk or a bear. Once you get there, you'll have the place pretty much to yourself. Another recommendation: Ruby Beach, also on the Olympic Peninsula.
One drawback of many Washington beaches: They aren't easy to get to. (You can't just roll out of your car and walk a few feet to the beach.)
Beaches are therapeutic. "You go to a beach, and it's like decompressing," said Leatherman. "The ocean has energy and motion with waves beating against the beach. It's almost hypnotic. I can watch waves hours on end."
Like the rest of us, Leatherman likes to walk along a beach and play in the water. "I like to run into the water as fast as I can and then fall into it. Of course I look for rip currents before I take the big plunge."
He also enjoys the sand. "It takes me back to the time when I was a child and had a sandbox. It was my beach, so to speak."
Except for people who live near a beach, Leatherman probably spends more time on beaches than most people. Would he ask for more? Yes, if he could. He fantasizes about working at a university on a beautiful beach. Unfortunately, there is no such institution.
We thought landlocked Utahns, who see an ocean sunset occasionally or only in their dreams, would like an introduction to the best beaches in the United States.
Here's a list of the top 20 in Leatherman's 1994 survey. We're including highlights of the top 10, which are shown on the accompanying map.
First-place beaches in previous years were Kapalua on the Hawaiian island of Maui; Bahia Honda State Recreation Area in the Florida Keys; and Hapuna on the west side of the Big Island of Hawaii.
1. Grayton Beach State Recreation Area, located on the Florida Panhandle near the town of Fort Walton Beach: brilliant white beaches, emerald water, uncluttered skyline. At certain times of the year dolphins swim near shore.
2. Kailua, Hawaii, on the east coast of Oahu: BIG sandy beach (Hawaii usually has small beaches) great for swimming, snorkeling, kayaking; easy access.
3. Caladesi Island State Park, near Tampa, Fla.: natural paradise in an urban area reached by ferry; plenty of palm trees.
4. St. Andrews State Recreation Area, on the Florida Panhandle near Panama City beach: brilliant white sand (it's so brilliant you must wear sunglasses, Leatherman jokes); campsites; Shell Island, a short trip from St. Andrews by ferry, is great for birding and shelling.
5. St. Joseph Peninsula State Park, Fla.: southeast of Panama City on the Gulf Coast near Port St. Joe: pristine waters, big sand dunes, forest, one of the best beaches for camping.
6. Kaunaoa, Hawaii, on the west shore of the Big Island: developing into a state park; small beach where white coral sand contrasts with black lava flows; palm trees; great for swimming and sunbathing. "The contrast of the white vs. black, the soft (sand) vs. the hard lava flows took hold of my senses," says Leatherman. One drawback is access. "You have to drive over a road with lava flows (they're improving the road) but it's worth the drive and short walk it takes to get to it."
7. Crandon Park, Fla., on Key Biscayne: HUGE beach (guesstimate: six miles long, 800 feet wide); palm trees, lots of life guards, well-protected for swimming - no big waves or currents.
8. Ulua, Hawaii, part of area of Wailea on Maui: small pocket beach with white coral sand; good for swimming; well-kept promenades with access to upscale hotels.
9. St. George Island State Park, Fla., on the Panhandle: white sand looks like sugar; reach the island via a bridge; great fishing.
10. Fort Desoto Park, Fla., in the Gulf: nice family beach with warm water most of the year.
11. Delnor-Wiggins Pass State Recreation Area, Fla., north of Naples.
12. Perdido Key State Recreation Area, Fla., near the Alabama state line.
13. Hulopoe, on the island of Lanai, Hawaii.
14. Ocracoke Island, N.C., on the Outer Banks.
15. Sand Key Park, Fla., near St. Petersburg.
16. East Hampton Beach, N.Y., on Long Island.
17. Westhampton Beach, N.Y., on Long Island.
18. Clam Pass Park, Fla., near Naples.
19. Smathers Beach, Fla., in the Keys.
20. Coast Guard Beach, Mass., on Cape Cod near Eastham.
But along with the good comes the bad. The United States has some awful beaches, too. Border Field State Park in San Diego County near the Mexican border is closed to swimming because of raw sewage carried into the water by the Tijuana River.
Holly Beach in Louisiana is muddy and erodes easily. The water is muddy because of the Mississippi River, and carcasses of sea creatures that look like a cross between an alligator and a fish sometimes litter the shore. "You don't go to Louisiana for the beaches," said Leatherman.
Staten Island Beach is near New York City's landfill where they've dumped garbage for about 100 years.
Life isn't always a beach.