"The appeal of jeans cuts across oceans, continents, generational and income lines, reflecting the denim boom in America," says Norman Karr, Jeanswear Communications executive director and former director of The Fashion Association. Everything in the fashion world points to the continuing dominance of jeans, as various manufacturers beat the bushes, trying to come up with new twists that will keep people buying.

The biggest and most recent change comes from Levi Strauss & Co., one of the oldest and most important of the jeans manufacturers. In late November, Levi Strauss launched one of the biggest fashion campaigns in its 150 year history - Levi's Wide Leg Jeans. They have seen the future, they say, and "it's wide open."According to John Fernandes, advertising manager for the Levi's Brand, "The Wide Leg trend represents the most important shift in jeans wearing since the loose fit trend of the early 1990s. The look is not huge or oversized. Instead the jeans are worn to fit at the waist and hips. They have a wide leg from knee to the ankle, a stove pipe look. It's a cool, up-to-date look."

Levi used focus groups with young consumers, who said they were often "sizing up" in the waist to create a wide leg look with other fits of jeans. Some said they did the "stove pipe test," a quick measurement comparison done by laying the pants flat and flipping the pant leg up so that the leg opening lines up directly with the knee area. The closer the width, the better the "stove pipe" look.

Consumers should purchase Levi's Wide Leg in the wearer's regular size, making sure the waist fits without a belt, while the hip area and legs remain loose. The full-cut jeans should be worn with fitted tops and sturdy, colored shoes and street boots to create the best look. Fashion stylists also recommend that jackets be selected that are either short or long and fitted.

The Levi's Wide Leg jeans include silhouettes with leg openings ranging from 18 inches wide to a massive 23 inches, compared with the traditional 14-inch width of the classic fit Levi's 501 jeans. Men and women, ages 18-24, are the group targeted by Levi for this new jean concept.

Ralph Lauren has introduced a new jeans concept this year, as well, through Polo Jeans, which stresses jeans with superb fit, finish and details. Lauren has four cuts for women - slim, classic, relaxed and loose - and four fashion bottoms shaped into wide leg, flare, signature boot and cropped boot leg fits. For men, there is the basic signature boot cut, and five additional silhouettes: slim, classic, relaxed, loose and big.

Both the women's and men's Lauren collections feature a 16-dip denim with a deep, rich blue hue and a soft washed hand - created through maximum saturation of denim in pure indigo dye. Medium and light stonewash, sandblast and destruction finishes add other dimensions and options.

Liz Claiborne has introduced the New Classic Jean for women, a jean with soft denim and a great fit. Claiborne has tried to reinterpret one of the best-loved and most essential items of a woman's casual wardrobe, and brought it to a new level of comfort.

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Claiborne's narrow-cut jean legs lengthen and flatter, while the waist dips slightly in front to streamline the hips. The cut emphasizes the curves of a woman's body. The denim is soft and relaxed in a lighter-weight fabric. The Classic Jean comes in two versatile washes - indigo blue and deep black, and three lengths - short, medium and long - for just the right look.

Calvin Klein has introduced a jeans line just for kids with simple, fresh and easy styles. Klein offers basic jeans, denim shirts and jackets, cut from soft, heavy cottons in shades ranging from Black Out Denim to Authentic Blue and Enzyme Wash. For easier dressing, Klein has designed several jeans in the smallest sizes with elasticized waistbands.

Young people can choose from a wide selection with Klein - from soft and cozy waffle-knit henleys, sherpa-lined plaid flannel jackets or moleskin jeans to colorful stripes and striking plaids. This is a brand new mix and match trend, and khaki pants put a modern twist on the classics. Overalls and jumpers provide the basis for layering the perfect back-to-school ensembles.

Jeans - new and improved - are here to stay.

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