Once a seedy bar, now a sushi bar, Ginza, across the street form the Salt Lake Convention Center on 200 South, makes a fun and funky alternative to your usual downtown dining experience.
You've probably passed by several times, noticed the unique neon signs, and thought, "I wonder what that's about?" Wonder no more and know that they've completely refurbished; scrubbing and polishing the place until it positively shines. They've painted the walls a clean, cool mint green and added modern black chairs and deco light fixtures. While Ginza does not try to take you to Japan with kimono-clad servers and Far Eastern music, you know you're in for some serious Japanese dining when you notice there is no silverware on the tables. I like a restaurant that takes for granted the fact that its patrons are savvy enough to know how to use chopsticks.My favorite new feature of the building is the addition of a substantial sushi bar, where you can order up to 35 different types of sushi on any given day, including the specials, for anywhere from $3 for tamago or egg omelette sushi, to $10 for the very rich rainbow roll.
Sampling sushi is one of my favorite pastimes, and I ordered quite the pleasant variety, checking for freshness, temperature of fish, rice texture and flavor, and presentation. Although not quite the best in the area, the Ginza sushi chefs scored well in all categories, the more exotic the sushi, the better, as far as I was concerned. The tako, or octopus, was flavorful and tender, not rubbery, which is rather common. The uni, or sea urchin, and mirugai, or giant clam, were so fresh they were still alive. The spicy tuna roll, with sprouts, radishes, cucumbers and seasoned tuna, was exceptional. On the other hand, the more common rolls, like the California crab, cucumber and avocado, were not outstanding. In fact, there was a slight ammonia taste to it.
This seems to be a theme at Ginza. The more original and authentically Japanese the dishes are, the better they are prepared. The Ginza Nabe, at $14.50, for example, comes to your table in a steaming bowl full of objects identifiable only to the most well-versed in Japanese cuisine, but all are delicious. It's described on the menu as a Japanese-style chowder that has a pleasing blend of sea food, salmon, shitake mushrooms, tofu and vegetables, boiled in kasuzuke soup, with a taste similar to hot sake. Don't be afraid to let your chopsticks go where they've never gone before in spearing food you can't quite categorize. The surprising colors, textures and flavors will delight you.
It's the same story with Ginza's very elaborate and specialized sukiyaki, which includes tofu, Napa cabbage, yellow onions, bamboo shoots, shitake mushrooms, green onions and "Chef Tetsu-Ro's' extras," for $13.50. If you like, they'll arrange for you to eat it the traditional way, by dipping the solids from the soup in a small bowl of beaten raw egg. Why not be adventurous and give it a try? There's much to be said for unconventional authenticity.
Besides, at Ginza, the unconventional is definitely the best.
Americans are more used to basic tempura dishes of veggies, chicken or shrimp dipped in batter and fried, served with teriyaki sauce. This is not Ginza's strength. Although presented well in lacquered trays, it is, for the most part, over-fried and grease-laden, making it impossible to eat a large portion. Their teriyaki - beef, chicken or salmon - another American favorite, is fine and thoroughly cooked but certainly no stand-out. Prices for these dishes, which include miso soup, salad and rice, run from $7.50 to $10.50 for lunch, and $10.50 to $12.75 for dinner. I found the lunch prices a bit steep in comparison to many of Salt Lake's other Japanese restaurants.
The service at Ginza is friendly and casual - often the chefs will call across the small restaurant to greet you as you enter and thank you as you leave. Be forewarned, however, that the people milling about outside the restaurant are not quite as friendly and can be a bit intimidating as they demand spare change, or even try to sell you various articles of the clothing they're wearing.
Despite the inevitable pitches from panhandlers in the area, Ginza is a step in the right direction for downtown Salt Lake, nudging it toward a more cosmopolitan eclecticism. Here's hoping it flourishes.
Rating: * * * 1/2
Ginza, 209 W. 200 South, Salt Lake City, 322-2224. Open for lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., and for dinner Monday through Thursday, 5:30-9:30 p.m., and Friday and Saturday until 10:30 p.m. Reservations are not necessary. Credit cards and checks are accepted, but there are no separate checks for groups over six.