Mention the delectable cooking of the French and it kindles thoughts that would vault even the empress of continental cuisine, Julia Child, into a handstand. After all, she instructed the American home cook in the details of "Mastering the Art of French Cooking" as early as 1961, and thus began a long-standing, national love affair with foods boasting a French pedigree.
The secret lies in the skill, a skill that must survive in the genetic patterns of those blessed with French ancestry. Escoffier, the famed father of French cuisine, compares it with a musical composition where "the structure of gastronomy is built upon the harmony and sequence of its elements." It's the perfect blending of sauce and spice, of fish and herb, of baguette and cheese and of pastry and filling. Wherever you stop in France, never mind the province, the locally concocted servings almost scream with distinctive flavors and scintillating tastes.Luckily for mountainbound locals, French tastes persist in the cozy corner of the Normandie Cafe and Bakery in Holladay, a nearly 2-year-old restaurant extension of the popular Bakers de Normandie at 2075 S. 700 East. Set back in the midst of assorted businesses on the congested corner of Holladay Boulevard and Murray/Holladay Road, the bakery's sign is easy to miss, and the parking is often challenging to uncover.
Inside, you'll wonder if you haven't arrived in the Old Country with uneven tile floors, faux marble and Provencal tile walls, hand-carved counters, wire bread baskets and an official hanging of copper pots. The wooden slab tables and country-caned seats are accented with cobalt blue serving pieces. Though simply appointed, the decor creates subtle suggestions of a legitimate French patisserie.
With a straightforward but limited menu of salads, sandwiches, soups and pastas, the selections are simple and satisfying. Select, for example, a savory frittata ($4.25) layered with fresh basil, spinach, roasted tomatoes, angel hair pasta and Parmesan cheese or the flavored combination of Broccoli and White Cheddar Quiche ($4.25).
Daily specials are accompanied by a crunchy mixed-greens salad blended with roasted peppers, thinly sliced red onion and dowsed with a heady balsamic vinaigrette. A Soup de Jour, like clam chowder ($4.95) topped with a crouton and melted Gruyere transports the diner near culinary heaven.
A glance at the display case introduces a host of authentic pastries like chocolate-dipped almondine ($1.50), an orb of chewy almond pastry bathed in chocolate; starched Napoleons ($1.50), a stout stack of puff pastry, creme and sugar dusting or croissants soaked with almonds, apricots or stuffed with chocolate ($1.25).
Anchoring the entire offering is a horde of crusty bread varieties: traditional hard rolls and baguettes, sourdough loaves, multi-grain cafe rolls and the savory cheese and herb Provencal loaf.
At this quaint oasis, man could definitely live by bread alone, but don't overlook the side course underpinnings of a wonderful Old World-inspired menu.
Rating: * * * *
Normandie Cafe and Bakery, 4679 S. Holladay Blvd., 277-5244. Hours: 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Major credit cards and checks accepted.