ANTELOPE ISLAND STATE PARK -- The first clue that you're somewhere special is in the water.Jim Hayes of Salt Lake takes in the view at White Rock Bay.Photo by Kristan Jacobsen
Looking to the south side of the 7.5-mile paved causeway that leads to the Great Salt Lake's largest island, the water is frozen and looks like a frosted and scratched mirror. However, the north-side water is open and resembles a smooth sea of glass that reflects the Wasatch Mountains more perfectly than any camera lens ever could.Welcome to Antelope Island in winter where the visitors are few and the solitude is vast.
Park manager Tim Smith said about 300,000 people visit the island each year. A typical January will attract 7,300 visitors to Antelope Island. That's only about 235 visitors a day on average. Compare that to July, when more than 31,000 people swarm here -- almost a five-fold increase.Requires Adobe Acrobat.
Winter's decline in visitors increases the chances of seeing the state park's wildlife face-to-face.
Indeed, I have to stop my car during a late December afternoon drive around the island to be sure a wandering buffalo isn't going to run in front of me.
I stop and we stare at each other curiously for several minutes as two of my children get their first close-up look at a free-roaming bison.
"Why is his face so black and the rest of him so brown?" my 6-year-old daughter, Elizabeth, quickly asks.
"That's how buffalo are," I reply simply.
Earlier when my children had marveled at the frozen side of the lake, I explained that Farmington Bay on the south side of the causeway freezes almost completely in a cold winter. That's because it has more fresh water on top and is less salty since it is partially cut off from the lake's main body by the causeway.Photo by Kristan Jacobsen
The main portion of the Great Salt Lake is just too salty to freeze.
Although he lacks any statistics, Smith is sure the Antelope Island -- the largest of the six major isles in the Great Salt Lake -- receives less snow than the Wasatch Front in general.
"We're too far west," he said. "We just don't get the accumulation."
The scarcity of snow is good news for the wildlife, mountain bikers and hikers, but not for cross-county skiers. "This," said Smith, "is not a good place to ski."
Taking the right-side loop around the island to Bridger Bay, we pass a few other cars but meet just three people at the island's premier beach, and they're leaving.
"I think it's very pretty. Very calm," Katie He of New York City said as she left the Bridger Bay beach. "I really like the landscape."
She is a guest of boyfriend Chris Steele from Salt Lake City and his father, Leslie Steele.
"I like seeing my dad being young again," Chris said, reflecting on his dad's beach frolicking.
Leslie Steele said winter on the island is great. Not only is it nice seeing the bison so close up, but "there's also no bugs," he said. And if you camp out on Antelope Island, the star gazing is terrific because there are no city lights to mask the stars.Photo by Kristan Jacobsen
The only regret the Steeles have is that they can't take their East Coast guest on a tour of the Garr Fielding Ranch.
The 11-mile dirt road to the historic ranch toward the south end of the island is closed so the road can be prepared for a $3.5 million paving project this spring.
After the Steeles and their guest leave, my family is left to walk in the soft sand of Bridger Bay alone.
Solitude may be the island's biggest draw in winter. "You may not see another person some days," Smith said.
The rocky, small Egg Island off the coastline stands out, but my children soon realize the dark shapes littering the shoreline aren't rocks, but dozens of dead birds.
Some 25,000 birds -- mostly eared grebes -- were killed last October from an avian cholera outbreak. Some California gulls and ducks also died.
The dead birds don't bother me. They're a part of nature and a good lesson on the fragile nature of life.
I'm most enjoying the stillness of the water and the sun's spotlighting on nearby Fremont Island, a privately owned isle that's been for sale at $3 million for almost two years with no takers.
The green hues in the shallow edge of the water make for a mysterious look. However, my kids prefer throwing rocks on patches of ice in the sand.
Leaving Bridger Bay, we drive to the highest paved point on the island -- the Buffalo Point parking area. Although the concessions and gift shop are closed here for the winter, it's the busiest spot in the island. A dozen cars are parked here. Exactly half have Utah license plates. Iowa, Arizona, Colorado, New York, New Mexico and New Hampshire are also represented.Photo by Kristan Jacobsen
Looking eastward, the difference in the water on each side of the causeway is even more apparent from this vantage point. The iced side seems penned up, locked in time, while the other side appears much bluer.
A lone sailboat, off the northwest shore of the lake, is the only sign of life in Utah's "Dead Sea."
My kids and I take the half-mile, relatively easy hike to the top of Buffalo Point. Climbing the extra 235 feet to the plateau's summit takes about 10 minutes, and we are rewarded with a panoramic view in all directions -- something you don't enjoy at the parking lot.
We have to sidestep numerous, fresh buffalo pies along the trail, though.
The buffalo have free rein on the island in winter, and they too, seem to have hiked all over their namesake point.
Smith said there's no water available for buffalo here in most of the other three seasons. However, in winter the snow and pockets of water mean they can graze freely here.
During other times of the year, you'll likely have to use binoculars to see the buffalo miles away, or be separated from them by a fence.
Looking down, we see dozens of buffalo scattered all over the rocky landscape. Though Buffalo Point seems accurately named today, the island itself is named after antelope.
Many antelope lived here in pioneer times, but they were killed off. State wildlife personnel did relocate some antelope on the island last fall. We can't spot them today, but Smith said the newly planted antelope will probably be less secretive in winter than any other time of the year.
I briefly visit with the Watson family from Salt Lake and Orem on the top of Buffalo Point as they're setting up their camera gear to capture the spectacular sunset here they missed the previous night.Photo by Kristan Jacobsen
They point to their motor home parked alone, some 400 feet below, at White Rock Bay. They'll also be camping a second night there, too -- all alone.
Camping areas are little used in winter here.
"We don't get much. You'll have it all to yourself," Smith said.
Looking down at the water of White Rock Bay, Frary Point, the island's highest point seems extra majestic as the waters reflect it so perfectly. Smith said a trail to Frary, 6,596 feet above sea level and 2,200 feet above the lake, should be completed sometime this spring.
"That'll be an awesome hike," he predicts.
A few hikers can be seen off in the distance toward Elephant Head -- the island's main monolith reaching out into the water.
Smith said hikers, mountain bikers and horse riders use the trails in winter.
"There's many times a nice blue sky," Smith said. Today is no exception as the temperature hovers at around 50 degrees.
The 9.2-mile White Rock Bay loop is a great hike. It's an extra two miles on a side trail to the edge of Elephant Head and another two miles one way to descend into Split Rock Bay and the Mormon Rocks area.
That's a half-day hike or more, but even April daytime temperatures can be hot in the area. Winter's not a bad hiking season here.
State park rules require dogs to be leashed and hikers to remain on designated trails.
What are Smith's winter favorites on Antelope Island?
He especially likes roaming around the icy edge of the Great Salt Lake.
Smith said seeing unusual birds along the causeway is another winter highlight here. We spot more birds in the northern waters as we leave, but no unusual varieties.
As my family and I leave the state park, we pass a few bicyclists leaving for the mainland, too. The island already seems to be calling to us for a return visit -- especially one where we plan to spend more than just two hours. Antelope Island is indeed an underused winter playground.
How to get there:
Antelope Island State Park is open 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. in winter. Admission is $7 per vehicle. To reach the island, take I-15 exit 335 in Layton and go west on Antelope Drive/1700 S. about seven miles to the causeway. The causeway is 7.5 miles long.
Camping costs an extra $9 per night. All food concessions are closed in winter, so visitors should bring their own food and drink.
For more information, call the Antelope Island Gatehouse at (801)773-2941 or the Antelope Island hot line at (801) 625-1630. Utah State Parks information is available at 538-7220. Visit the Utah Travel Council Web site page on Antelope Island at www.utah.com/destin/greatb/gbsp/spaisp.htm.
Call Salt Island Advertures, (801) 583-4400, for information about boat cruises from Antelope Island.