I'm familiar with the term "America's Heartland," and I knew about the corn in Iowa and how it gets pretty high (though Iowans probably don't use elephants to measure how high, as they must have done in Oklahoma), but I found on a recent trip that "heartland" refers to more than the position of the state in the middle of the nation's torso.
The "heart" of Iowa is obvious to any first-time visitor and impressive, even when you've been warned. When my son paid the parking attendant at the Des Moines airport after he picked me up on Thanksgiving Day, she said, with sincere, smiling enthusiasm "Thank you SO much, and I'm SO glad you chose my window; I hope you have a wonderful day and a great stay in Iowa!"My son and daughter-in-law had been describing the incredible friendliness of the Iowans they've met since they arrived in Iowa City in July to attend the University of Iowa. But you have to encounter it to believe it. And this was no isolated incident.
Iowa may not be noted as a tourist magnet, but it's a surprisingly lovely place to visit. I expected farmland, but in Iowa the huge farms are interspersed with rolling hills, and streams are bordered by forests. Wildlife is everywhere. Even in the late fall, it's beautiful.
A highlight of my trip was a visit to the Amana Colonies, seven quaint villages tucked into the rolling hills of eastern Iowa, about a half-hour drive west of Iowa City and Cedar Rapids. The hospitality of Iowa is multiplied here, where it's said "gemutlichkeit (German for warmth, cheer and friendliness) overflows.
The colonies were founded by a group of Germans who immigrated to America in 1842, settling first near Buffalo, N.Y. In 1855, they moved west, forming their first village along the Iowa River.
Eventually they bought 26,000 acres of farmland and settled six more villages. They set up a communal system of living that has remained essentially unchanged for 89 years.
In the early years, all land and buildings were owned by the community; families were assigned living quarters, and each person over school age was assigned tasks in the kitchens, fields, factories or shops. In 1932, the people voted to end the strictly communal way of life.
Today many of the businesses in the Amana Colonies are independently owned and operated. Visitors can drive the 20-mile loop of roads connecting the villages and get a glimpse of how handicrafts are created, even today.
At Christmastime, it's a shoppers' paradise, with several stores devoted to Christmas decorations and gifts. Craft stores include the Broom and Basket Shop (two locations), Colony Candleworks, Creative Colony, Heritage Designs Needlework and Quilting, Oma's Hans and Roger's Anvil. Woodworking products include handcrafted solid walnut, oak and cherry furniture and clocks in traditional and custom designs.
Food of the colonies is legendary. Nine restaurants are located in farmhouse-style buildings. Two bakeries, a chocolate house and two smokehouses sell amazing varieties of breads and pastries, smoked hams, bacons, cheeses and sausages.
We ate at the Ox Yoke Inn and each ordered a different main dish -- breaded chicken, shrimp and a German sausage combination -- all served family-style, with mashed potatoes, vegetables, sauerkraut, salad and bread in bowls that were constantly refilled. We also tried the Death by Chocolate dessert and decided if this is dying, we're for it.