In the hierarchy of Nara's architectural wonders, age comes before beauty.
The temples and shrines of this ancient capital city aren't vying for the title of who is the fairest one of all. It's more like which one is the oldest.They were built when years were numbered in three digits. The calendar hadn't turned the page past its first millenium.
The Orient was in full bloom when Europe was stumbling around in the Dark Ages.
The Buddhist temple of Horyuji dates from 607 A.D. Some of its buildings are considered to be the oldest wooden structures in the world. Todaiji, another Buddhist complex, has a massive main hall that's believed to be the world's largest wood building. Todaiji originated in the 8th century. Kasuga Shinto Shrine, ensconced in a lush primeval forest, was established in 768.
These man-made Methuselahs are to people what bristlecone pine trees are to Mother Nature. If they were cats, they would have more than nine lives.
They have survived fires, earthquakes and clashes between ancient clans to remain part of the skyline of modern-day Nara, a city of 350,000 surrounded by low-lying mountains. It is small enough that you'll find it less overwhelming than, say, Kyoto or Nagoya.
Nara was the country's capital from 710 to 784, a mere 74 years. But it was near the time the seed of Buddhism, which was planted in India, took hold in Japan and blossomed. The result was astonishing wood edifices filled with bronze or wooden images of Buddha, silent observers of history.
A tour of Nara's temples is a stroll through the pages of an art history book.
The statues themselves are works of art. The Buddha in the main hall at Todaiji, for example, is the world's biggest bronze Buddha. The head fell off during an earthquake soon after it was cast, but was soon replaced. Later, fire destroyed the main hall, leaving the image standing exposed to the rain for nearly 100 years.
A Buddha image at Toshodaiji, not to be confused with Todaiji, has 1,000 arms.
Shintoism, which shares the dais with Buddhism as a principal religion of Japan, revolves around a reverence for nature. It teaches that God resides in nature and that ancestors can become deified.
Shinto deities are said to have ridden white deer to Nara from the north. Consequently, the animals have enjoyed a near-sacred status. They roam freely in Nara Park, a forested and grassy haven in the heart of the city. Today's deer population in the park exceeds 1,000.
The animals are not shy. Like panhandlers, they walk up to you and beg for a handout. Some may butt you in the behind or nip at you with their teeth. Vendors sell wafers that satisfy the deer like a gourmet meal.
An ideal souvenir of a trip to Nara is a small book with blank pages. Artisans at each participating historic site will fill the pages with calligraphy.
The books are inexpensive, and the calligraphy is free with the minimal entry fee into each site.
Other types of souvenirs typical of the area will take a sizable wad out of your wallet. A black lacquer box with inlaid mother-of-pearl costs hundreds of dollars. A hand-crafted ink stick, even a small one, might be $30. Decoratively painted itto-bori carvings, also known as Nara dolls, are as much as $600, or more, apiece.
Nara is a 30-minute train trip from Kyoto, another area with ancient architectural splendors. Kyoto was Nara's successor as the country's cultural and religious capital.
More often than not, tour groups visiting Kyoto will also stop at Nara.
UNESCO has designated a number of sites in and around Nara as World Heritage Sites. They include:
Todaiji (pronounced Toe-DIE-gee) -- The main hall of this Buddhist temple complex is the world's largest wooden building, which, appropriately, houses the world's biggest bronze Buddha. The present structure is an 18th-century reconstruction, only 60 percent the size of the original that was completed in the 8th century. Even so, its dimensions are staggering. Some parts of the colossal Buddha have been recast. Todaiji was established during the reign of Emperor Shomu and was the central temple in a system of state-sponsored temples. Its construction reportedly took half the government's budget.
Shoso-in -- A short walk from Todaiji's main hall, this 8th-century gem stands intact. The building is a massive wooden rectangle that sits on sturdy pillars high above the ground. It was built for Emperor Shomu as a place to store artifacts brought to Japan from China, India and Persia. The structure still holds some of its magnificent booty. Other items from Shomu's treasury are now housed in modern facilities. The National Museum of Nara displays artifacts from the treasury each year during special exhibitions in October and November.
Horyuji -- Todaiji has the biggest wooden building in the world. Horyuji (pronounced Hory-YOU-gee) has the oldest. The complex was founded in 607 A.D. A few of its 40 buildings are original wooden structures. Pay special attention to the South Great Gate, the Main Hall, the Sacred Spirit Hall, the Five-Storied Pagoda, the Lecture Hall and the octagonal Hall of Dreams. They are all registered National Treasures. A statue of Guze Kannon, an image of the imperial prince Shotoku Taishi, is in the Hall of Dreams. The hall is open for public viewing for a couple of weeks in the spring and in the fall. The complex includes a modern museum that displays ancient objects dating from as far back as the 7th century. Horyuji is on the outskirts of Nara.
Kasuga Shrine -- Founded in 768 A.D., this is one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan. Its vermillion-colored buildings contrast with the deep green of the surrounding Kasuga primeval forest. The shrine honors four major deities from the Fujiwara family. Ornate metal lanterns hang from the eaves. Thousands of stone lanterns, many covered with moss, dot its grounds. Families have been putting up stone lanterns at Kasuga for more than a thousand years. In the spring, blooms of wisteria add to the already enchanting setting.
Kasuga Primeval Forest -- The forest was considered a habitat of Shinto gods, so the trees have never been cut.
Kofukugi -- Located on the other side of a scenic pond from the Nara Hotel, a five-story pagoda is the landmark of this Buddhist complex, if not of Nara. The pagoda was destroyed by fire many times. The current reconstruction was built in the 15th century.
Gangogi -- This temple was built in nearby Asuga but was moved to Nara in the 8th century. It was the first Buddhist temple in Japan. The main hall was reconstructed in the 13th century. Some of the roof tiles are original.
Toshodaiji -- Founded by a Chinese Buddhist priest, the temple was built in 759 A.D. The main hall dates from the 8th century. On July mornings, lotus blossoms throughout the grounds open their petals.
Yakushiji -- Most of the original buildings were destroyed by fire. Only the three-story east pagoda is original. But the colorful reconstructions of the main hall, the lecture hall and the west pagoda give you an idea of the striking palette used on the original buildings.
Heijo Palace site -- Nara farmers have occasionally uncovered archaeological evidence of Heijo Palace, which dates from the 8th century. Replicas of the main gate and a garden are the highlights of an ongoing archaeological project. A small museum helps explain it.
Kathryn Clayton visited Nara as the guest of the Nara Prefecture, the Japan National Tourist Organization and Delta Air Lines.