Only in Utah County — Family Central, USA — will you find a 90-minute wait for dinner on a Monday night. It's kind of endearing, actually — though this week it took me by surprise. My family and I went to Tucanos Brazilian Grill, the newcomer restaurant at the Shops at Riverwoods in Provo.
You may have seen the obscure billboards on the interstate. (I comment on signage a lot, I know, but it makes all the difference.) And if you've been to Tucanos already, it's likely been from a referral, rather than the advertising.
Anyway, once there, you may have to wait a bit. The foyer is small but there are benches to fight over. Which is a help if you've got the tribe in tow.
The dining room is noisy and full and saturated with the aroma (and smoke) of the rotisserie. But the ceilings are high and the tables are well-spaced. It's not crowded and oppressive but is instead light and festive. That could also be partly due to the traveling band of drum-beating singers moving around the room; you can't help but keep the rhythm with your foot.
Tucanos serves the traditional churrasco-style meats, that is, spit-braised over an open flame. This is a style known for it's way of giving big flavor and juicy texture to meat. Servers bring the meat on spits to your table and carve it right there for you. Most of what is served is various cuts of beef, but there are chicken, turkey, pork and the traditional linguica sausage, as well.
My favorite was the cheese-and-garlic-crusted sirloin, although the chicken thigh is fall-off-the-bone tender and juicy. My least favorite were the pork cuts. They were dry and overdone.
If you order the all-you-can-eat deal, you can fill up on all the meat you want plus the salad and side bar. This turns out to be a pretty good value, especially if you have little ones (kids ages 8 and under eat free).
Tucanos Salad Fiesta is pretty good. It features both traditional Brazilian and American selections. I think it's better than the side dish and salad bar of Salt Lake's Brazilian competitor. The variety is better, for one thing, and the food also seems fresher. Not that they don't have a little bit of the "same old thing": I skipped "foodservice" items like the broccoli soup (too pasty and condensed), and out-of-place crowd-pleasers like the Parmesan penne, and went for the black beans, fresh fruit and those little mozzarella cheese pillows.
The restaurant's signature fluff drink, called Tucanos, was warm and foamy. I didn't enjoy it. The flavor was good, but the drink wasn't refreshing. There are others to choose from, though. Most are tropical in nature, made with fruit, ice cream and soda. Don't forget the Brazilian lemonade. Now that's a refreshing treat — mellow and tangy at the same time.
I had the Napoleon for dessert. I don't think it's typical Brazilian fare, and the Tucanos version is a prefab job, plain and simple.
The other desserts are oversize servings of cakes and mousses, wheeled around under glass on a cart for all to drool over. But judging by the Napoleon, don't let them take your breath away. You're better off to fill up on fresh fruit from the salad bar or try a specialty drink.
So is Tucanos worth the wait on a Monday (or any other) night? I think so. There was plenty to eat, I had a good time and the food was worth the price. There is something for everyone, family or not. Don't bother traveling to Salt Lake to that other Brazilian place; Tucanos is as good, and better in some ways, and livens up the restaurant scene in Utah County.
Prices for all-you can eat lunch $9.95, dinner $15.95; specialty drinks $1.75-4.25; desserts $3.75-5.45.
Tucanos Brazilian Grill
*** (out of five)
Location: The Shops at Riverwoods, 4801 N. University Avenue, Provo; 801-224-4774
Hours: Monday-Thursday 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., closed Sunday.
Payment: major credit cards
Stephanie Tanner-Brown may be reached by e-mail at stephanie@desnews.com