PERRY — It's the perfect time of year for a boondoggle. North is the best direction to head, if you ask me.
I took my family on a ride this week in search of fall fruit, pumpkins and a corn maze. From Salt Lake City, the drive to Willard and Perry isn't too bad if you get a jump on rush hour, especially with a car full of good company. And as long as you're going to go that far, I suggest making it all one step better by stopping for lunch or dinner at Maddox Ranch House.
For more than 50 years, Maddox has held its reputation as a legendary Utah dining establishment, a virtual institution. And yet, it's probably been a while since you've thought about it. Maddox is the sort of place that is run by people who recognize the local clientele and call them by name, and where the local clientele often comes in generational groups, all instantly recognizable as family.
But, as I've found, even out-of-towners receive that familiar hospitality.
Maddox is bustling with activity and totally absent of pretense. I think it's so popular because folks enjoy all the housemade food; the value of generous, sometimes bottomless portions; filled-out meals and excellent prices.
We tried to enjoy as much of this as we could, starting with fresh-brewed creme soda and hot rolls. All my son said to our server after eating his first hot roll was, "Are there seconds on bread?!" To which came a hearty, "You bet!"
When you order a meal at Maddox, it comes with those bottomless hot rolls; soup, salad or seafood cocktail; baked, mashed (yes, they're real!) or fried potatoes; steamed vegetables and cold well-water. It's a heckuva value and plenty of food, and it gets even better if you're a senior!
Since Maddox is legendary for its beef, I tried the filet mignon, cooked medium rare. Add grilled mushrooms to this thick, crusted beauty and you'll have a meal to die for.
On another visit, I had the also-legendary fried chicken. The meaty portions are crusty but not greasy. Maddox's chicken defines finger-lickin' heaven.
My husband tried the chicken-fried bison sirloin steak, and it, too, was mighty fine.
As you've probably guessed by now, Maddox is no place for the dainty bird-like eaters of the world. It's more of a place for those who are willing to guiltlessly embrace home cooking for one meal.
For dessert, I suggest the housemade ice cream or seasonal fruit pie, although the cheesecake, which is ordered in, is respectable. Tasting the fat, fluffy chocolate-cream pie left me wanting a little more chocolate "oomph." Whichever you choose, be warned, all desserts are decadently generous in size.
If it's been a while — or if you've never been — this is the perfect time of year for Maddox. It's worth noting that the Maddox family night is Monday, and the restaurant is closed. So plan your family night accordingly.
All in all, our jaunt up old Highway 89 this week was highly satisfying. We saw gourds and squashes of all shapes and sizes; we watched a peaceful sunset against a view of Willard Bay; we chose some fabulous pumpkins for carving and took in plenty of fall color against the mountains.
We sniffled a lot in the crisp air and laughed together plenty. It was quite idyllic.
And Maddox was certainly a part of that.
Prices for salads and sandwiches $4.95-$8.95, lunch specials $7.65-$12.95, deluxe dinners $14.95-$21.95, full dinner plates $9.95-$14.95, fountain drinks and housemade sodas $1.79-$2.39, sides and "enhancements" 95 cents-$3.95, desserts $1.95-$3.95.
Maddox Ranch House
*** 1/2 (out of five)
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Location: 1900 S. U.S. 89, Perry; 435-723-8545
Payment: major credit cards, checks
Reservations: suggested at peak hours
Other services: takeout, banquets
E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com