AMERICAN FORK — Do you remember those grab bags some stores offer where for a set price you get a sack and then discover the contents? Sometimes they are great. Sometimes they are not. That is how I felt about La Vigna Ristorante Italiano, an Italian eating establishment in American Fork. Five of us sampled meals we had never tried. It was a mixed bag, because some selections were excellent and others disappointing.
For the past three years La Vigna Ristorante Italiano had been the location for Ottavio's, with the same logo and menu as Ottavio's in Provo. As the La Vigna manager explained, the American Fork owners did not renew the option, created new recipes and gave themselves a new name. "Our tomato soup is better than Ottavio's," he boasted.
Well, it might have been had it been served hot instead of lukewarm. And therein lies the problem. The dishes arrived in various stages of temperature. The Tuscan Rib Eye, a tender steak marinated in olive oil and garlic herb butter, was delectable. One could have not asked for a better cut of meat. The problem is that the steamed vegetables accompanying the dish were cold. The portobello ravioli featured a large portobello mushroom with cheese-filled ravioli in a roasted red pepper sauce. The entire entree was cold. It likely was the first dish prepared and cooled as the other entrees were prepared. At $14, it is disappointing to chew on a cold umbrella-shaped fungus. What made it worse is that we mentioned it to a server who merely stared at us and did nothing. Admittedly, the restaurant was crowded, and he had several tables besides ours. But this is a fine dining establishment and he clearly failed Serving Etiquette 101.
Lesser problems included chicken Marsala. It had a clear, runny wine sauce that was missing the full-bodied flavor typical of most Marsala dishes.
For others, the results were wonderful. The eggplant parmigiana featured a flavorful ricotta and Romano cheese sauce with fresh eggplant and a savory, chunky marina sauce. It was lovely. Likewise, the chicken cannelloni with hand-rolled pasta stuffed with herbed chicken, tomatoes, mozzarella and ricotta cheese was baked to perfection in a creamy alfredo. The bread that accompanied the meal had an appealing texture and a light herb taste.
When it came time for dessert, everything was lovely. The creme brulee featured a light cream topped with a crunchy caramel crust. The chocolate torte would convert a non-chocolate lover, and the berries in cream sauce were scrumptious.
So depending on the diner, this was either an agreeable or a slightly unpleasant experience and earns a mixed rating.
LA VIGNA RISTORANTE ITALIANO —** 1/2 —
Address: 749 W. 100 North, American Fork
Hours: Mondays through Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Cost: Appetizers $7-$8, salads and soups $4-$14, entrees $11-$24
Phone: 756-3730
Charlene Winters is a freelance writer, former food editor and food judge who — when she's not in the kitchen — works as the director of communications and marketing for BYU alumni. Contact her at charlene_winters@byu.edu.