Whenever I tell one of my close friends that I have just visited Logan, she always asks if I had a tongue sandwich at the Bluebird. And while I must confess that I have never tried that particular menu selection during my yearly treks to Logan, I always stop to sample the fare at one of Utah's landmark restaurants. From "Aggie" candy bars to chicken fried steaks, I have tried just about everything on the menu.
Over the last few years, however, the quality of the food and service has been declining. My disappointments were echoed by other visitors who shared their sadness about the lackluster meals. Last winter the Bluebird was sold and rumors of bankruptcy and closure circulated as the problems continued.I am pleased to report That during our most recent journey to Logan, The Bluebird is chirping a melodic and appetizing tune. New ownership has rejuvenated this classy restaurant.
During our recent week-night dinner, young college-age waitresses (assisted by the beat of rock 'n' roll music) hustled to and fro behind the soda fountain and adroitly balanced the hefty plates of American favorites. Our personable waitress even took time out from her rounds to watch as I taught my children one of the few parlor tricks I know that won't get you kicked out of a restaurant - balancing a salt shaker on its edge. Carrying on such time-honored traditions requires at least linen on the table, a vanishing commodity among today's cost-conscious restaurants, and a sense of history. The Bluebird has both.
The decor is the classic turn-of-the-century motif accentuated by dark wooden tables and booths set amid the tile floors and high ceilings. The emblems of the city fathers' clubs - Rotary, Kiwanas, BPOE, to name a few - proudly hang just beneath the open office on the second floor.
The dinner menu is also emblematic of American traditions - filet mignon, Delmonico, local rainbow trout, fried chicken, to name a few of the entrees served with hot fresh rolls, homemade soup and crisp green salads. The new management has conceded to some of the current fads by adding appetizers such as potato skins, tempura mushrooms and Louisiana hot wings.
Somehow the latter seemed a bit out of place, but both the potato skins ($3.95), covered with melted cheese, sliced scallions, and bacon bits, as well as the mushrooms ($3.50), further whetted our appetites for four of the entrees we sampled.
The same enjoyable quality of the appetizers was apparent in the filet, pan fried trout, salmon filet and fried chicken. The salmon was the clear favorite, a generous portion cooked to juicy perfection and saturated with lemon dill butter.
The pink, tender 10-ounce trout, also expertly prepared, was a large bone-in serving. The filet, wrapped with bacon, also displayed the consistency of the kitchen. Even the usually prosaic fried chicken paid attention to the basics, with a slight peppery taste to the crunchy skin.
The country gravy on the mashed potatoes also reflected a less-than-modest dose of pepper, though this was balanced by a mild summer squash sautee that came with each of the dinners. Prices range from $7.95 for either the chicken fried steak or pork cutlet with country gravy to $14.95 for the filet and chicken combination.
Other entrees include several fresh salads, such as shrimp Louis, fruit supreme and the Bluebird vegetable combo, as well as grilled halibut, deep-fried prawns and a fresh roast of the day.
In addition to the delicious selection of homemade candies available on the premises, the ice cream treats offered on the menu add to overall experience and perhaps excesses. But shucks, we don't get to Logan that often! The cherry pie ala mode was the least pleasing, though it was very good. It just couldn't compare to the fresh fountain treats we liked, like fresh lime freeze, fresh banana malt and creme electric sundae ($1.75), coffee nut ice cream, coffee syrup and roasted almonds.
Other dessert choices include two-layer cheesecake, several choices of cream pie, double-layer cakes and half a dozen sundaes.
It is heartening when institutions such as The Bluebird not only survive but continue to thrive. It is also a fact that should delight both the historian and the gourmand.
Rating: * * * *
The Bluebird, 19 N. Main, Logan. 752-3155. Open Monday through Saturday, 7:30 a.m. until 9 p.m. and Sundays from noon until 6 p.m. Accepts some major credit cards and checks with guarantee card.