During the past decade, Mexican cuisine has become popular dining out fare. Today even McDonald's features a breakfast burrito. Not too many years ago, burritos, tacos, enchiladas - the staple of Mexican cooking - could only be found in small ethnic enclaves in the Southwest.
Unfortunately, as this colorful and festive cuisine is diverted into the mainstream of America's culinary tastes, it runs the risk of losing its authenticity. And for each of us, the authenticity of Mexican food is deeply rooted in our own memories - like the bowls of freshly made chili verde neighbors pass over the fence on Salt Lake City's west side, steaming tamales at church bake sales in New Mexico or barbecued goat meat in San Antonio's barrio.Our favorite memories of Mexican food were recently rekindled when we enjoyed dinner at La Calandria (or "skylark"). Located in an unassuming building in Midvale, La Calandria features some of the dishes that struck a chord that resonated "authenticity."
The light corn chips were livened with a smoky and spicy salsa, redolent with roasted chilies. Even from the start there was a sense that this was an eatery that had not been diverted or diluted by the mainstream.
This was also the case with two of the entrees, an earthy rock red chili Colorado ($4.50) and the steak a la ranchera ($6.25). The latter dish features sirloin strips smothered in a rich sauce, laced with sliced green peppers, onions, ground black pepper and chilies. It packed just the right wallop. The generous serving of chili Colorado was also substantially seasoned, with pieces of tender pork.
The shredded meat in the homemade tamales ($4.50) was also fresh and lively though a little less piquant. The smothered chili verde burrito that came with the large combination plate ($5.50) was mild, and, as is characterized of some styles, blended with beans as well as chunks of pork and green chilies.
The side order of refritos were creamy yet not overly mashed; even the rice had a nice chewy texture and flavor. The enchiladas were not drowned in melted cheese; nor was the guacamole ($3.50), all pure avocado, doctored up with sour cream.
Other specialties include nachos a la Calandria ($4.90), huevos a la ranchera, chorizo con huevos (both $4.75), several combination plates ($4 to $5), steak lupita with salsa verde ($6.25), chili relleno , chicken flautas ($4.50), and menudo . On Sunday, La Calandria features barbecued goat with a special salsa. A lingua (beef tongue) plate is also offered in addition to the regularly featured menu. Several American dishes are also available.
We finished our dinner with a rich rice pudding topped with ground coriander, an authentic touch, some might say.
La Calandria is owned and operated by Petra and Ben Quinonez. Their own culinary traditions at La Calandria should help any aficionado of Mexican cuisine reaffirm the meaning of "authenticity."
Rating: * * *
La Calandria, 36 W. Center St., Midvale. 566-4464. Open daily from 10 a.m. until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday; until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Accepts checks with guarantee card; no credit cards.