Founded by conquistadors in 1531, Mazatlan spent the first centuries of its life as a sleepy outpost of little importance. Municipal government wasn't even established until 1837. And not until 1883 did anything happen that was worth noting in the history books. In that year famed singer Angela Peralta, known as the Mexican nightingale, came to Mazatlan, caught cholera - and died.
In 1914, Mazatlan again came to world attention. The Mexican Revolution was in full swing, and the forces of General Venustiano Carranza set out to destroy the fort at the top of nearby Icebox Hill. The plan was to use homemade bombs made of dynamite, stones and nails packed in pigskin. But the pilot overshot his mark and dropped his load on a downtown street. Thus Mazatlan earned the distinction of being the second city in the world (after Triopli) to suffer aerial bombardment.So far, things don't look so promising. Of all possible claims to fame, Mazatlan has only two: the death of a diva and bombardment by pigskin.
But let's fast-forward a bit to the 1940s, and check into the Hotel Belmar situated along a quiet stretch of beach in an area known as Olas Altas. A peek at the registry shows we are not the first to arrive. Others, such as Ernest Hemingway, have come here to try their hands at sport fishing; others, such as Katharine Hepburn, have sat on these balconiesto watch the sun sink slowly into the Pacific. Word spreads; a Mazatlan vacation becomes the "in" thing among the well-heeled; the city comes into its own as a resort destination.
And so the fates have decided: Let other places be the rich pockets of Mexican history. Let them be famous for their Aztec ruins and their Colonial splendor. Mazatlan will be known for its sport and for its scenery.
Not a bad way to go, actually. Today, Mazatlan is Mexico's largest Pacific Ocean seaport and boasts of the longest stretch of uninterrupted beach in Latin America. Tourism is its second largest industry, behind fishing.
Not that everything you find in Mazatlan is sleek and modern. There are ties to the past, a downtown restoration project that will bring back the glories of yesteryear, cultural traditions and trappings that give the place an atmosphere all its own. But unquestionably the big draws to Mazatlan are its wonderful stretches of white, sandy beach and the accompanying water sports of swimming, sailing, surfing and deep-sea fishing.
Nestled against the Sierra Madre mountains and on the same latitude as Honolulu, Mazatlan is ideally situated for a beach resort, with a subtropical climate that averages around 80 degrees F. year-round. It lies just east of the tip of Baja California, and off its sandy shores, where the Sea of Cortez meets the Pacific Ocean, billfish and marlin abound.
Mazatlan is at the northern end of what is called the Mexican Riviera, a sweep of resorts and beaches that stretches south to Acapulco. And as the closest major Mexican resort to the United States, it gets daily air service to and from major cities served by half a dozen airlines.
The city, with a population of almost 500,000, is spread out along a 15-mile peninsula. The coastal highway, which changes name five times to identify different beaches, takes you past fishing fleets, yacht clubs, cliff divers and several of the city's numerous monuments as well as hotels, restaurants and clubs.
Most of the newer hotels are spread from Camaron Point north through the Zona Dorada or "Golden Zone" down to the Camino Real Hotel just past Sabalo Point. (There are some condominium and hotel projects slated for the other side of the Camino Real, but for now it's pretty much considered the end of the strip.)
All of this is relatively spread out compared to most Mexican resorts, so the beaches generally have an uncrowded feeling to them.
Because of its reputation as a sportsfishing mecca (the ratio of days needed to land a marlin, sea bass, tuna or other game fish here is a day-and-a-half to one; compared to 10 days-to-1 in Hawaii), Mazatlan takes on a somewhat sporty, masculine air. But there's plenty for the non-fisherman to see and do as well.
In the center of town is the Moorish-styled cathedral built in 1890; a plaza where weekly band concerts occur; and the newly renovated Angela Peralta theater. The City Market is a bustling center of activity, where you can find everything from seafood and grain to souvenirs and crafts.
Lookout Mountain offers a grand view of the city spread out below. Another breathtaking scene requires a 25-minute hike to the lighthouse (El Faro), which at 505 feet above sea level is the second highest natural lighthouse in the world (after Gibraltar).
Along the rocky shore is the diver's cliff where daring Mazatlecos plunge 45 feet into the sea. A glimpse of the city's history can be seen in "Old Mazatlan," where centuries-old buildings are being restored to their former glory.
If you're looking for traditional Mexican culture, stop by the Mazatlan Arts and Crafts Center to check out the more than 20 shops. Most afternoons a short show features a variety of folk dances - from the familiar Mexican Hat Dance to the more unusual pole dance wherein a quartet of musicians climbs to the top of a pole, and the four hang by their heels as a rope slowly unwinds to lower them to the ground.
Sightseers can also experience the untouched islands around Mazatlan. Scuba diving and shell hunting are popular on Deer Island, just a short boat trip away from the water sports center at the El Cid. Stone Island, with some 8,000 acres of coconut groves, has a tropical ambience. Thousands of birds are nested on White Rock Island, and sea lions from Vancouver, Canada, can often be seen on Sea Lion's Island.
For those wanting to venture farther afield, day trips to the interior can be easily arranged. Twenty-five miles from the coast is Concordia, once a French garrison of Napoleon. Surrounded by coconut, mango and banana plantations, Concordia is a major crafts center, with everything from ceramic tiles to leather goods and hand-carved furniture.
Another 15 miles inland is Copala, a picturesque mining village with 400-year-old cobblestone streets and red-tiled roofs.
The name "Mazatlan" is Nahuatl, meaning "place of the deer." You won't find many deer around the city today, but you might want to check out some of the other wildlife: shrimp and frogs.
Mazatlan is home base to Mexico's largest shrimp fleet. More than 37 million pounds of shrimp are processed there each year, and tons of shrimp are frozen daily and shipped to the United States. But not every crustacean makes it onto the big boats north; there are plenty to be found in local restaurants (along with an abundance of other fresh seafood).
As for the frogs . . . you won't be in the city long before you hear about Senior Frogs, a restaurant that has achieved cult-like status with the cruise ship crowd. Even if you want to pass on the rowdy fun that's become a trademark, you might want to pay homage to the larger-than-life papier-mache frog at the entrance.
Twice a year, Mazatlan puts on a special celebration. The week before Ash Wednesday, Carnaval features five days of music, parades, fireworks and galas. It's the third largest citywide celebration in the world, after Rio's Carnaval and New Orleans' Mardi Gras.
In November internationally known symphonies, pop stars, opera singers, concert pianists, dance companies, reggae groups and other performers arrive for the Cultural Festival, a two-week celebration of the arts.
In season, there's bullfighting. At any time of the year, there's tennis and golf.
So, you'll find plenty to do in Mazatlan.
But allow yourself plenty of time to not do as well - to sit under a palm tree on a golden beach, to listen to the rhythm of the waves, to watch a sunset, to celebrate the serenity and revel in the relaxation. That, after all, is what beaches do best.
- Carma Wadley visited Mazatlan as the guest of the Mazatlan Tourism Trust and Aero California.