The mystique of meatloaf.
Meatloaf mystique, you guffaw. Not meatloaf! Why, it's Budget. It's Basic. You know, Boring!Meatloaf, it seems, evokes strong opinions. Seems the mixture of beef/pork/veal (or any combination), a binder (such as egg), a filler (like bread) and spices can cause the loaf-eater to utter one of two responses: 1. YUCK! or 2. YUM!
But whatever your opinion, the much-maligned, molded, meaty mass is returning to the culinary consciousness of Americans even as we salivate/speak.
Mom's home cookin' has been reinvented - newly-romanticized for the oh-so-basic '90s.
Hushed are the nightmarish whispers from the past. Silenced are harried hair-netted school-lunch matrons slapping greasy slabs of "mystery meat"on Melmac trays.
Meatloaf has returned triumphantly to kitchen tables and restaurants across America.
Yes, IT'S BAAAAAACK!
"It's not just meatloaf. It's a sense of family. It's a whole feeling," says Peter M. (for Meatloaf) Kaufman, one of the original directors of The Great American Meatloaf Contest.
When contacted at WMHQ (World Meatloaf Headquarters) in Jamaica Plain, Mass., Kauf-man recalls overhearing a group of businessmen enthusiastically exchanging meatloaf recipes several years ago like kids swapping baseball cards.
This amazing phenomenon - men "dishing da details of da loaf" inspired Kaufman, a former catering director, and T.K. Woods, ex-magazine editor and culinary institute executive, to organize a contest.
Northeastern cooks were invited to enter The Great American Meatloaf Contest, and, after a great outpouring of meatloaf recipes, the event went national, landing the personable "Meatloaf Mavens" a feature spot on "Live with Regis and Kathie Lee."
Definitely not loafers, Kaufman and Woods compiled the recipes into a deliciously funny cookbook, "The Great American Meatloaf Contest Cookbook; Great Meatloaf Recipes by Great Americans" (Hearst Books).
The volume is written with the perspective of your average meatloaf-loving, single guy. Inexpensive, mouthwatering and easy to make, the 150 recipes were contributed by men, women and teens representing 41 states and every region in the country.
Here's a taste:
"To all of you single guys out there, this is a great loaf to make for that special someone. I tried it one night, and it had the desired effect: She didn't run out of the dining room clutching her throat. It's simple and easy to clean up. That's especially important if you do dishes as often as I do - the day after a total solar eclipse."
Kaufman's "male-oriented" thesis goes something like this: Meatloaf, the primo American comfort food, is a "Y chromosome" thing.
"It gets men involved," he says.
Pretty appealing to a single guy. The roots thing. Mom, apple pie, meatloaf.
Men are discovering the "healing qualities" of mixing up a "personalized" loaf - their own creation. It's an ego-builder, not to forget the upper-arm shaping caused by intense chopping, mixing and meat molding.
Yes, being "master of your own loaf" hold strong appeal. And meatloaf is easy to make and quick to mix. Kaufman once prepared a meatloaf in two minutes!
Another plus - the meatloaf is a forgiving food friend. You can't really make a meatloaf mistake. Just a little bit of this and a handful of that - it's still meatloaf. (What it tastes like is another matter!)
Actually, meatloaf isn't exclusively a male manifestation.
For years, women have been faithfully cooking and serving meatloaf to their families. Budget-oriented Depression meals made it a popular old standby, with fillers like oatmeal extending the servings (and girth) for families.
No longer solely found in diners and "greasy spoon" eateries, meatloaf has made it on the menus of upscale restaurants around the country.
Now you find the lovely loaf along with polenta and pasta. Only now, it's called "bistro" food. Ooh la la!
A Salt Lake restaurant, Bubba's, (4291 South 900 East) is a haven for those seeking wildly popular "comfort food."
Southern-style "Good Food" packs 'em in most nights. Chef and owner Marco Schlenz, home-grown in Atlanta and a connoisseur of comfort cuisine, proudly features Bubba's Mamma's Meatloaf on his menu.
Two thick slices of meatloaf, swimming in brown gravy, neighbored by creamy potatoes 'n' gravy and sliced carrots - is a popular choice for Bubba's "loaffies" (as devoted as any Star Trek "trekkies").
There's no mystery to meatloaf, Schlenz says.
"It's just Mama's meatloaf, that's all."
At presstime, I received a letter from"Great American Meatloaf Contest Cookbook" co-author, Trish Woods. She wished us a Happy St. Patrick's Day and noted, "I'm making green meatloaves tomorrow (not the moldy kind.)"
It was signed, "Meatloavingly yours, T.K. Woods."
*****
RECIPES
Mom Kaufman's Meatloaf (modified by her son)
1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef
1 medium onion diced
2 tablespoons butter
1 egg slightly beaten
4 tablespoons ketchup
4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
4 tablespoons steak sauce
4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2-5 drops Tabasco sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
1/2 cup Italian bread crumbs, or enough to make the meatloaf stay together.
Saute the onions in the butter until they are almost clear; set aside.
Mix meat and the other ingredients in a mixing bowl. (Hint: rinse your hands with cold water before mixing so the meat doesn't stick to your hands.)
In a separate bowl, mix ketchup, mustard, steak sauce, Tabasco and Worcestershire sauce. Combine this mixture with the meat and add the sauteed onions.
Add bread crumbs. If necessary, add extra crumbs to reach desired consistency.
Cover the meat with aluminum foil or food wrap and refrigerate for one hour, giving the flavors a chance to blend.
Put the meatloaf in either a 9x5x3-inch loaf pan or free-form it and place it on a cookie sheet. Dust the top of the meatloaf with bread crumbs.
Place the pan in a pre-heated 350 degree oven for 45 minutes. Broil for the final 5 minutes until the top is crispy. The meatloaf is done when the internal temperature of the meat reaches 185 degrees. Let stand for 10 minutes before slicing. Serves 6-8.
- Each serving contains 322 calories, 21 g fat, 11 g carb, 647 mg sodium, 116 mg cholesterol.
- From The Great American Meatloaf Contest Cookbook, by Peter "Meatloaf" Kaufman and T.K. Woods
Bubba's Mama's Meatloaf
2 pounds lean ground beef
1 tablespoon A-1 steak sauce
1/2 tablespoon French's mustard
1/2 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
3 eggs
4 ounces bread crumbs
1 tablespoon tomato puree
1 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon diced green pepper
1 tablespoon diced fresh tomatoes
1 tablespoon dried onions
Mix well. Place in baking dish or form in a water bath. Bake at 375 degrees for 1 hour, or until done. Serves 8.
- Each serving contains 308 calories, 18 g fat, 12 g carb, 512 mg sodium, 150 mg cholesterol.
- From Chef Marco Schlenz, Bubba's restaurant
Nacho Loaf
2 pounds extra lean ground beef
1/2 cup sour cream
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
1/2 cup diced onions
1/2 cup mild salsa
1/2 cup corn meal
1 1/4 ounces sliced black olives (or less, if you're not an olive fan)
Tortilla chips
Canned jalapeno peppers
For Cheese Sauce:
2 tablespoons margarine
2 tablespoons flour
1 cup milk, slightly warmed
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
3 dashes hot sauce (or to taste)
Salt to taste
For Nacho Loaf:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Combine all ingredients except olives, jalapeno peppers and tortilla chips. Work in sliced olives. Press into a 9x5x3-inch loaf pan. Bake for one hour.
Remove from oven and drain off any liquid. Let it cool in pan for 10 minutes while preparing cheese sauce. Garnish with tortilla chips and jalapeno peppers.
Mix ingredients for sauce; serve warm over meatloaf. Serves 8.
Hint: If your'e crunched for time, buy a commercial cheese sauce and follow heating directions on the label.
- Each serving contains 448 calories, 31 g fat, 12 g carb, 387 mg sodium, 109 mg cholesterol.
- From Sue Harger, chef at Hemingway's Restaurant, Cedar Rapids, Iowa. Contestant in Great American Meatloaf National Recipe Contest - Pro Division.
Richard Nixon's Meatloaf
1 1/2 pounds lean ground beef
3 tablespoons breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons whipping cream (or milk)
2 tablespoons tomato sauce
1 egg
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon seasoning salt
Mix ingredients well. Form into loaf. Bake 30 minutes at 375 degrees then 20 minutes at 350 degrees. Serves 6.
- Each serving contains 252 calories, 17 g fat, 2 g carb, 468 mg sodium, 111 mg cholesterol.
- From an unnamed source
Cape Cod Cranberry Meatloaf
1 pound ground chuck
1/2 pound ground pork
1 pound ground veal
3/4 cup whole cranberry sauce
3/4 cup dark brown sugar
2 eggs
1 finely chopped medium onion
1/4 cup ketchup
1/2 cup milk
1/2 cup dry breadcrumbs
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1/2 teaspoon marjoram
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/2 teaspoon rosemary
2 whole bay leaves
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine cranberry sauce and brown sugar in a small mixing bowl. Line a 9x5x3-inch loaf pan with aluminum foil.
Pour the cranberry and brown sugar mixture into the loaf pan. Make sure the sauce covers the entire bottom of the loaf pan.
In a large mixing bowl, combine remaining ingredients, except for the bay leaves, and mix well.
Place the meat mixture into the loaf pan on top of the sauce. Top the loaf with bay leaves and bake for 11/4 hours.
Let the loaf cool 10 to 15 minutes, and remove bay leaves. Carefully turn the loaf pan over onto a serving platter. Drizzle pan juices, especially the cranberries, over the loaf before serving. Serves 6.
- Each serving contains 584 calories, 22 g fat, 53 g carb, 687 mg sodium, 217 mg cholesterol.
- Dianne C. Mahlert, Tallahassee, Florida. Grand Prize Winner of 1992's Great American Meatloaf National Recipe Contest.
German Applesauce Meatloaf Aunt Matilda
1 1/2 pounds ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork
1/2 cup onion, finely diced
1 cup applesauce
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 cup bread crumbs
3 tablespoons ketchup
2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine all ingredients and mix well. Pack mixture in a 9x5x3-inch inch loaf pan. Bake for 1 1/2 hours. Let cool. Turn out of pan, slice and serve. Serves 8.
- Each serving contains 302 calories, 17 g fat, 15 g carb, 739 mg sodium, 94 mg choleterol.
- From John N. Frase, From the Test Kitchens at World Meatloaf Headquarters.
Bob Evans General Store Meatloaf
1 1/3 pounds ground beef
1 1/3 pounds sausage
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup diced onions
1/2 cup diced celery
2 eggs
1/3 cup ketchup
1/3 cup picante sauce
1/8 teaspoon garlic powder
3/4 cup dried bread crumbs
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Saute onions and celery in oil until tender, then remove from pan and rinse with water. Drain well and set aside.
Beat eggs rapidly for 30 seconds. Add ketchup, picante sauce, and garlic powder. Mix rapidly for 30 seconds, scrape bowl, and blend for another 30 seconds. Add onions, celery, ground beef, and sausage to mixture. Scrape bowl and add bread crumbs. Mix for 1 minute.
Press meat firmly and evenly into a medium loaf pan. Round all edges so excess fat can drain off top of loaf while baking. Cover with foil and bake for approximately 75 minutes. Remove from pan immediately and cut into 3/4-inch slices. Serves 8.
- Each serving contains 554 calories, 40 g fat, 17.5 g carb, 1482 mg sodium, 162 mg cholesterol.
- From Branson Cookin' Country by Susan St. Marie-Martin.
Dinah's Mushroom-Stuffed Meat Loaf
1 large onion, chopped coarsely
1/2 cup finely chopped celery
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 pound medium-size mushrooms, sliced
3/4 cup tomato juice
1 cup soft fresh bread crumbs
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or to taste
1/2 cup sour cream
2 pounds ground chuck
1/2 teaspoon cumin
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Saute onions and celery in butter. Add mushrooms and saute until vegetables are limp. Add 1/2 cup tomato juice and simmer 10 minutes.
Mix in bread crumbs, 1/2 teaspoon salt, and 1/8 teaspoon pepper, or to taste. Add sour cream. Taste for seasoning and set aside.
Mix together lightly ground meat with 1 teaspoon salt, 1/8 teaspoon pepper, cumin, remaining 1/4 cup tomato juice, and eggs. If a little dry, add more tomato juice.
Preheat oven to 450 degrees.
Shape meat mixture into loaf in greased loaf pan. Scoop out center, fill with mushroom mixture, and pat remaining meat mixture over mushroom stuffing, enclosing completely with ground meat. Bake 20 minutes. Reduce oven to 350 degrees and bake 30 minutes longer. Serves 8.
Variation: To raw ground meat, add 2 tablespoons chopped jalapeno peppers.
- Each serving contains 333 calories, 21 g fat, 9 g carb, 635 mg sodium, 130 mg cholesterol.
- From The Dinah Shore Cookbook by Dinah Shore.