I admit I was afraid.
I was afraid of disappointment at the new il Giardino in Salt Lake City since I'd had such wonderful experiences at her sister restaurant located in a restored pioneer home in Heber. The new venue, after all, was situated on 800 South, in the building that once housed the very dark and dreary Zaccheo's.Rumor had it that the Ruspolis were considering opening their Salt Lake branch in the steller spot Nino's had once occupied, and I was disheartened that it was decided that that room with a view would be more lucratively leased as office space. The location on 800 South seemed a poor substitute.
Until I stepped inside. Gone were the dark woods, the faded pictures, the dusty banners. In their place was bright Mediterranean spaciousness; terra cotta walls and floor tiles, a weathered copper fireplace, spotless table linens and crystal, blond wood chairs, a sparkling ray of light where once there were shadows.
And the menu? Could it equal that served in Heber? I was informed that the chef from Heber had recently been transferred down to Salt Lake, so the answer was an ecstactic sigh - "oh, yes."
I'd already experienced the delights of the Farfalle Salmone, corkscrew pasta with smoked salmon in a creamy sauce laced with vodka, for $11; and the Gnocchi 3 Formaggi, their delicate potato dumpling draped in a creamy sauce with gorgonzola, marcarpone and parmigian cheese, for $12. I'd also been intrigued by their Carpaccio, raw filet mignon sliced tissue thin and served with artichoke, celery, parmigian and lemon dressing, $12; and the Caprese salad, consisting of fresh mozarella, roma tomatoes, basil leaves and a sprink-ling of olive oil, $10. So I asked the server what other dishes were popular.
His manner was pleasant as he suggested several options. He was careful to define the Italian words a diner might not be familiar with, and his attitude was neither condescending nor presumptuous. All the help was friendly and cooperative but not intrusive - a fine line to walk.
I settled on the Tegame Di Molluschi, a wonderful melange of sauteed clams, mussels and tiny calamari, served in a tomato sauce that was described as "spicy," but was actually rather mild, for $12. Veering away from my penchant for Carpaccio, I also tried the Bresaola, $9, which is a beef-lover's rapture; thin slices of flavorful imported Northern Italian sun-dried beef drizzled with a rucola lemon sauce, and a mound of crisp greens. Rolled together, they're an exquisite appetizer, quite enough for six people.
I also sampled the Carciofi salad, $12, an unusual mixture of rocket greens, baby artichokes sliced fine, and patches of parmesan, with a tart dressing, a nice way to start off your meal. Pastas here are reasonably priced but do not include a house salad.
Meats, poultry and fish, however, do include vegetables. The night I was there that meant spinach wilted in olive oil, crispy roast potatoes and carrots. They were an excellent complement to the cornish game hen, uniquely served split, pounded, partially boned, then brushed with Italian herb sauce and charbroiled, for 416. No plump breasts stuffed with corn meal here, this dish focuses on the grilled flavor of the meat and marinade, a pleasant surprise.
If you're more in the mood for pasta at il Giardino, you'll have nearly 20 selections to chose from. I've already mentioned some of my favorites, and I can now add the Ravioli Giardino, $13, to my list of favorites. The delicate homemade ravioli pasta pillows are stuffed with veal, which has an extremely well-defined taste and texture. There is no confusion here about the filling. It's then covered with a fresh tomato, parmesan and basil sauce. A little more diversion in the dish might be welcome, perhaps toss in a few raviolis with different fillings.
If you're in a quandary over which pasta to order, the dessert menu will offer you some relief. It is usually limited to two or three choices and always includes their own version of tiramisu, which is not bad, and closer to the Italian original than you'll find in most places. I'm glad to see them refrain from spreading anything fluffy on top, and you will be, too, after working your way through such fine, generous meals.
Soon, as the weather warms up, il Giardino will add Italian patio dining, which should freshen up its facade. But any misgivings the location might inspire in the meantime will be erased the second you step inside. It easily ranks among the best of Salt Lake's Italian eateries.
Rating: * * * *
il Giardino, 280 E. 800 South, Salt Lake City, 521-5353. Open for lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Monday through Friday. In three weeks, it will be open for lunch on weekends as well. Dinner hours are 5:30-10 p.m., seven days a week. Reser-vations are accepted and recommended for weekends and large parties. Checks and all major credit cards are also accepted.