Back when glaciers played in Logan Canyon, some 10,000 to 20,000 years ago, they rolled boulders around, carved out valleys and created moraines, cirques, eskers, tarns and all those other delectable features geologists like to talk about.
Then the climate changed, the weather warmed, and glaciers had to find new playgrounds. But they left behind one of the prettiest mountain areas you'll find anywhere: Tony Grove. The small lake, with surrounding pines and meadows, offers an exceptional place for either sitting or for doing."There's just a blanket of wildflowers," says L.J. Western, information assistant for the Logan Ranger District. "I think it's even prettier than Albion Basin in Little Cottonwood." And so, if all you want to do is sit and soak in the mountain scenery, here's a place to do it. But there's also ample opportunity for those who want to do more: hiking, camping, fishing, boating (no motors allowed!), swimming and more.
"It's probably the most popular place in the entire district," Western says. "It's so pretty, for one thing. The wildflowers in the summer and the fall colors are just breathtaking. But it's also the only alpine lake that you can drive to here. The lake is quite unique. In the high Uintas, you expect a lake at every campground, but this is our only one."
The turnoff to Tony Grove is located about 20 miles from the mouth of the canyon. The road to the lake is another seven miles. And considering how remote it is, it's surprising how well-known and well-used it was early on.
The first settlers recognized the value of the mountains for many reasons. Logging and stone quarrying, of course, were important. But in 1855, Brigham Young noted: "I am going to explore in the mountains, and I invite you to go. . . . The outdoor air is what the people need for health; it is good for them to camp out."
The use of Logan Canyon for recreation instead of industry did not really begin until the 1880s. But by the turn of the century, it had become a popular picnicking and camping area. And by the '20s, according to a Forest Service report, more than 79,000 cars passed through the canyon on one particular day, and at least 30,000 spent the entire day there.
The Tony Grove Ranger station, across the road from the turnoff to the lake, was built in 1902, the same year the land in the canyon was set aside as a "national" forest. And by the early '20s, the lake itself had become a popular destination for Logan's wealthy set -- the Eccles and Thatcher families, in particular -- Logan's high-toned, uptown or "tony" crowd as they were called in those days. And that's how the lake got its name.
During the Depression, the area across the road from the turnoff was the home of Camp F-1 of the Civilian Conservation Corps. Workers lived in barracks that are now used by USU as a Forestry Field Station and built campgrounds, repaired roads and installed snow survey equipment. In turn, they received $1 per day in wages, plus room and board.
Nowadays, you don't have to be either rich or poor to go to Tony Grove. But you might have to get there early if you want to camp. "We have just a small campground, and it won't hold big trailers," explained Western. "There are some sharp turns on the road that won't work for big trailers. But smaller ones are OK." As are tents and other camping. A third of the 37 campsites are available by reservation; the rest are first-come, first-served. "At peak times in the summer, those are gone by Wednesday for the weekend." Campers can stay for a maximum of seven consecutive days; the charge is $11 a night.
But the area is popular with day visitors as well. The lake is stocked with trout; on a hot summer day, the cool waters of the lake are perfect for swimming, and several of the canyon's most popular hiking trails take off from there.
"One of the most popular hikes is the 3-mile trip to Naomi Peak," says Olivia Salmon, another information assistant in the district. That's three miles one way. But Naomi Peak gives you one of the best views in the whole area, looking out over the whole basin, she says. In 1983, 45,000 acres were set aside as a wilderness area around Naomi Peak.
Also popular is the fairly easy hike to White Pine Lake, which is about seven miles up and back. "That one's especially popular with Scout groups. We probably have every Scout troop in the valley at one time or another," Salmon says. On busy summer weekends, the trail is almost like a highway.
Those wanting longer treks can take the trail to Green Canyon or to Smithfield Canyon. And if you go on past Naomi Peak you will get to High Creek Lake and High Creek Canyon above Richmond and Cove. (Park a car at the other end, advises Western, so you don't have to hike back.)
Peak season for Tony Grove is about mid-July to mid-September, says Western. "But it's very weather-related. Most years we can keep at least the lower campground open through the end of September and sometimes to the end of hunting season. But we don't plow the road, so the snow closes us down. And the water is turned off when it starts freezing."
And at the other end of the season, the campground opens when the snow melts. The past couple of years, the campground hosts had to plow the last section of road to have it open for the 4th of July.
Snow may even linger in some shaded areas well into the summer, which is actually a good time to enjoy snow. But Tony Grove is a place to enjoy all that nature has to offer.
In this high, alpine meadow, scarlet gilia, wild geranium, Elephant's head, lupine, larkspur, Indian paintbrush and more grow in abundance.
Chipmunks scamper around the lake. Deer are also in the area. In the backcountry, there have been numerous moose sightings.
The geology, too, is fascinating -- a record of the eons written in stone. Major rock formations are limestone and quartzite, deposited about 400 million years ago.
In the mid-'90s an improved trail and boardwalk was added to make it easier to walk around the lake, to enjoy it from all sides and times of day. And with the trees and the lake and the high mountain scenery as a backdrop, the whole setting is spectacular. That's what is so nice about Tony Grove, says Western -- it all comes together in such a nice package.
Come and hike or sit and enjoy. Either way, consider how much we owe to those playful, old glaciers.