Getting there: From Los Angeles, United Airlines has connecting flights to Aspen, Colo., changing planes in Denver, and America West has connecting service via Phoenix. Round-trip fares begin at $414.Where to stay: Aspen Central Reservations, telephone (888) 290-1324, takes bookings for most of the three dozen hotels, lodges and bed-and-breakfast operations in town. Prepare yourself for aggressive advance-deposit and cancellation policies -- high-demand ski season tactics have spread to the rest of the calendar year.
If money's no object, the Little Nell Hotel, 675 E. Durant Ave., Aspen, CO 81611, tel. (888) 843-6355 or (970) 920-4600, fax (970) 920-4670, Internet www.thelittlenell.com, sits at the foot of Aspen's slopes; 92 spacious rooms, a five-diamond ranking from AAA. Summer rates: $315 to $415, more for suites. Closest rivals: the large, luxurious St. Regis Aspen and the historic Hotel Jerome.
Midrange: Hotel Lenado, 200 S. Aspen St., tel. (800) 321-3457 or (970) 925-6246, fax (970) 925-3840, Internet www.aspen.com/sardylenado; summer rates $215 to $265 (though I negotiated a better deal).
Budget: Limelite Lodge, 228 E. Cooper Ave., tel. (800) 433-0832 or (970) 925-3025, fax (970) 925-5120, Internet www.aspen.com/limelite; 63 rooms/nine apartments, centrally located. July and August rates: $98 to $130. Ullr Lodge, 520 W. Main St., tel. (970) 925-7696, fax (970) 920-4339, Internet: http://www.aspen.com/ullr, has 26 rooms and apartments, pool and Jacuzzi; summer rates, $70 to $80 for rooms, $120 to $185 for apartments. (Note: Property is for sale, so things could change, but it's clean and affordable now.)
Where to eat: Cache Cache offers French food in a lively, see-and-be-seen dining room and courtyard; 205 S. Mill St., local tel. 925-3835. Pacifica Seafood Brasserie serves upscale seafood; 307 S. Mill St., tel. 920-9775, dinner entrees $18 to $36. La Cocina is a New Mexico-style oasis of affordability; 308 E. Hopkins St., tel. 925-9714, entrees $6 to $12 (no credit cards, no reservations). Main Street Bakery & Cafe is a bustling local breakfast scene, dinner Tuesday through Saturday; 201 Main St., tel. 925-6446, priciest main dish, $14.
For more information: Contact the Aspen Chamber Resort Association, (888) 290-1324 or (800) 262-7736, Internet www.aspen.com. But beware the prices listed in the association's Official Aspen Visitors Guide: Some numbers that look like great summertime bargains are actually available only in spring or fall.