Sometimes it's hard to get perspective on the way things really are when you're right in the thick of something new. I think new restaurants sometimes fall into this predicament. Usually these things work themselves out.
This week, at the new Orbit Cafe, I had the sense things weren't quite right on. It was as though a vision had been launched but did not quite hit the mark. I don't think Orbit is a flop; I just have some reservations.
The positives are easy to pick up right away. If Orbit can hang in there through the completion of the Gateway project and its own growing pains, I think what it has set out to be is novel.
First of all, Orbit is open all hours. With coffee, juices and a bakery, that seems to fill in the gaps where other places are limited. I get the feeling Orbit wants to be a comfortable installment in the neighborhood, a place where all sorts from the work force can get a healthy meal at a reasonable price.
Orbit's menu comes off as a mix of diner, pub and bistro. It almost speaks too many voices. But for the most part, the food is house-made; and for such reasonable prices, that counts for a lot.
During my dinner, I noticed a few rough edges that led me to wonder about the menu in general. I liked the hard rolls we started with; they were fresh and of good quality.
My husband and I ordered nachos and hot wings as appetizers. The nachos were good but piled too high. I got the feeling they weren't intended to be finished. There weren't enough goodies — black beans, jalapenos, salsa and cheese to go around the mound of hearty corn chips.
The hot wings were there. No complaints. Fiery enough. Meaty enough. But the dressing was downright impotent. With carrots and celery alongside, this dish seemed to be a placeholder in a small group of unrelated appetizers.
Dinner salads left something to be desired. Greens were not fresh but limp and heavy, with dressings that had hardly any flavor.
My husband Gary had the chile verde burrito. The plate is ample. I really like the way the black beans were seasoned. They weren't bland. The burrito is a carb-lover's dream, filled with a pretty decent pork chile verde, rice and potato.
I tried the baked-salmon plate. A small piece of salmon was served with a tangy green sauce I wouldn't call pesto, as the menu describes. The garlic mashed potatoes were potent but didn't seem quite right with the fish. Sauteed vegetables on the side were nicely done. It's hard to put my finger on, but I wish this plate felt more intuitive.
I'm intrigued by the sandwich menu; there may be some good possibilities there. We were happy with desserts we tried from the bakery case. I had the chocolate cake. It was much better at home where it had a chance to come to room temperature. The tiramisu was phenomenally good and the highlight of our meal.
My feeling is that Orbit's "hip" won't ultimately be found in the lava lamps and digital collage; instead, it will develop as locals begin to call it their own, and the flavor the clientele brings will blend with the original vision.
It may also come as the kitchen refines its voice. If the folks running Orbit are smart, they'll take cues. But for now, it seems as though Orbit is still searching for a soul.
Average price for appetizers $6.25, sandwiches and pizza $6.85, soup $3.95, salad $6.45, entrees $8, dessert $5.
Orbit Cafe
*** (out of five)
Hours: open 24 hours, seven days
Location: 540 W. 200 South, 322-3808, Web site www.cafeorbit.com
Payment: checks, major credit cards
Reservations: none needed
E-mail: stephanie@desnews.com