The tag line on the billboard read "Come as you are!" I looked down for a split second to inspect my appearance as I drove north on I-15. A toddler's faceprint was still visible on my shoulder . . . dried lasagna, runny nose, who knows what else? They don't really mean me, I thought.
I'm glad I decided to change clothes before eating at Loco Lizard Cantina in Holladay this week because it's sort of a "nice" place. Not the kind of place where people actually come as they are.
Still, it was easy to enjoy the smooth, clubby undertones of the decor. And the food wasn't really "come as you are" food either, but it was good and certainly matched the feel of the place.
Internal consistency is important in a new restaurant venture. Loco Lizard in Holladay is one of two Utah-born eateries that opened this past November.
The food at Loco Lizard is definitely distinct from other Mexican places around. It has a refined sensibility and a designer feel, though you'll find hints of tradition throughout the menu.
Loco Lizard says its food is "serious Mexican," but it is far from traditional. Recipes are fresh, with in-house production of things like sauces, tortillas, chips and tamales. But there is a twist everywhere you look. It really seems more like pub food — hearty dishes with ample cuts of meat presented in a contemporary style. Salsas explode with freshness, but they aren't the typical tomato-sauce versions.
They serve a chunky chorizo-laced fondue-type appetizer with extra-thick chips, meal-size salads with grilled meats, nachos and tamales.
There are two moles (say moe-lay) on the menu. I liked both the dark mole Poblano and the spicy mole Amarillo. Moles must have that depth, that certain something that continues to present notes after the initial taste. Loco's moles are a house specialty, and you can ask for samples before you order.
Loco Lizard has tried to do something different. The broiled mahi-mahi I had was smothered with a curious avocado butter sauce. It was different but light and fresh tasting.
In other places on the menu you'll see chorizo, ancho-chile butter, chipotle-pepper sour-cream sauce, pickled red onions, capers, achiote, toasted cumin and other flavors that suggest special effort was made to create distinctive dishes.
In the soup category, there are classic favorites, such as the pork- and hominy-filled stew Pozole, and Albondigas, with its meatballs and fresh vegetables.
If you have kids in tow, there's a menu for them. They can choose from a few favorites, such as "lizard legs," which are breaded chicken tenders served with a kicked-up ranch sauce. Plates come with fruit, beans and rice.
In addition to the frozen "fluff" drinks (try the prickly-pear margarita!), there are several sweets to choose from after dinner. We shared a chimichanga filled with vanilla ice cream and topped with chocolate sauce and coconut-whipped stuff. It was a tasty, cohesive presentation and fun to eat.
All in all, Loco Lizard may not give off that "let your hair down" vibe, but it is a charming and comfortable place still, and the fresh-made custom recipes are a reasonable value. We weren't loco, but we were happy about our night, for sure. Prices for appetizers $5.99-$10.99, soups $3.99-$8.99, salads $3.99-$11.99, specialties $9.99-$16.99, classic entrees $7.99-$10.99, combinations $10.99, desserts $5.99.
Loco Lizard Cantina
*** 1/2 (out of five)
Hours: Daily 11:30 a.m.-close (about 10 p.m.)
Location: Old Mill Village, 6550 S. 3000 East, Holladay; Kimball Plaza, Kimball Junction
Phones: 453-9400 (Holladay); 435-645-7000 (Kimball Junction)
Payment: major credit cards
Reservations: none needed
Other services: take out, catering
E-MAIL: stephanie@desnews.com