BAGAN, Myanmar — We have climbed a narrow, steep, stone staircase lit only by candles to reach the flat roof of the Pyatjadgyi temple here. Still somewhat gasping from the climb, we are knocked even more breathless by the view that spreads out around us as we step out of the stairwell onto the roof. Temple spire after orange temple spire — hundreds of them in every direction, large and small, tucked in among the green trees and brush and sesame fields. It is a panorama unlike anything we have ever seen.
It is no wonder that the "archaeological zone" of Bagan is the No. 1 tourist site in all of Myanmar (formerly known as Burma). Or that these sunset vigils from the tops of temples are one of the most popular activities among those tourists. Sunset at Bagan, our guide, May, tells us, is considered one of the most memorable sights in the world.
Our itinerary promised us that we would climb a "tall, serene building," and our temple is certainly that. A couple of other groups have also gathered here, but there is plenty of room for us all — to check out the views from every side, to venture even higher up more stone staircases, or to find a quiet little nook and ponder the meaning of life and history in this corner of the world.
In the far distance is the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River. Mist and smoke along its shores create an even more mystical ambience.
As the sun sinks lower on the horizon, the buzz of nearby conversations slows and then dies out altogether. There is something about it that seems to call for silent reflection.
We watch as the orange globe reaches out fingers to tenderly stroke the orange brick spires before sinking out of sight. The sun may come "up like thunder outer China 'cross the bay," as the poet Rudyard Kipling noted. But at Bagan, it slips away in peaceful tranquillity.
Some writers have compared Bagan to the famed temples of Cambodia's Ankor Wat. There are similarities in style and purpose, and even somewhat in scope. Some writers muse that Bagan is the equivalent of having every great cathedral in Europe gathered together into one place and spread out at your feet. It is, to be sure, an equal expression of faith done in stone, even if those faiths differ.
The temples and pagodas of Bagan are a remnant of a "Golden Age," a time when this area ruled supreme, if not of the universe, at least of this part of the world.
Bagan was the first capital of what is now Myanmar, founded in 107 A.D., when 19 villages and tribes were united into a common kingdom. Tradition says that 55 kings ruled Bagan before 1287, when the wandering hordes of Kublai Khan's Mongols ravaged the area and conquered the people.
The flat plain along the river covers about 15 square miles. It is called the area of "Four Million Pagodas," though in truth there were probably closer to 13,000 at the very most.
Now, after further destruction by earthquakes, including a particularly bad one in 1975, there are fewer than that. A 1993 survey of the area found 524 pagodas, 911 temples and 416 other buildings such as monasteries, halls and libraries. If you also count the brick mounds and foundations of other structures, the number reaches more than 4,000. (There is an odd little rhyme that somehow helps people to remember the number 4,446, which is apparently the locally accepted total. It translates to "the squeak of the bullock carts' axles.")
Still, it is an impressive number. And much restoration work, done by the government with help from UNESCO, has been done.
The religious buildings are of two main types. The pagodas, or zedi, are solid, often bell- or dome-shaped structures, that are said to contain some kind of relic of Buddha. The temples, or pahto, are usually square buildings with arched passageways and windows and contain images of Buddha large or small.
As you visit the area you can't help but wonder who did all this incredible building.
It was not the work of one king, or even all the kings, May tells us. As soon as anyone had the money and ability to build a temple, they did so "as a means to gain merit" that would allow them to "escape the vicious circle of reincarnation" and attain Nirvana.
Earlier in the day, we visited a couple of the larger and most important structures.
The Shwezigon Pagoda is at the top of the list. This structure was started around 1066 (interesting to think of that happening here, while the Normans were invading Great Britain), and we learn that it took workers in a bucket brigade six miles long to get the rock from the hills on the east to the building site. Now the stupa is totally covered in gold, but that was added much later.
Shwezigon's graceful bell shape became the prototype for later stupas built in the country, including the holiest of holies for Burmese Buddhists, the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon (Rangoon). One of Buddha's teeth is said to be buried there, giving it the nickname of Tooth Pagoda.
We walked around, studying the pagoda from all angles, watching as a flock of pigeons settles on the top of the dome and as the bright sunlight shimmers and dances across the spires. It is a place of peace and beauty.
Equally impressive in different ways is the Ananda Temple, which houses four golden Buddhas, two of which are supposedly original to the temple. One of them is particularly interesting in that when you stand close and look up at the image, it has a serious countenance. But as you move back farther, the serious mien gives way to a smile. What ancient artist was able to create that — or was it merely happenstance? Modern craftsmen have tried to duplicate the effort, but no one has come close.
In 1990, the spires of Ananda were gilded, in honor of its 900th anniversary, creating a striking contrast to the white stucco of the walls. Ornate carvings on the outside and paintings on the inside reveal more insights into that long-ago culture.
As fascinating as Bagan itself is, there are other attractions in the area. A popular day trip is to Salay, about 25 miles to the south, and Mount Popa, 30 miles to the east.
The road winds through the countryside past little villages and farm fields and what they call "scrambled egg" trees because of the bright yellow blossoms. After the heavy traffic of Yangon (where we spent several days before coming to Bagan), we were happy to see many fewer cars here. Most people travel by bicycle or cow cart.
(Adding to our enjoyment on these country roads was the minibus that we were riding in. It was old, maybe built in the 1960s or '70s, but well cared for. The seats were comfortable, each one decorated with a white lacy doily. At the very back, one long seat turned into a rounded bench. And overhead was a crystal chandelier. OK, maybe not real crystal, but with hundreds of dangling beads that danced over every bump in the road. It was a true delight.)
We stopped in Chauk to walk through the market to see the fruits, vegetables, meat, fish, spices and betel nuts for sale and to mix and mingle with the friendly people who seemed as interested in us as we were in them.
Salay is famous for its teak monastery, built in 1882 and now a museum. It has suffered a bit in upkeep over time but has some elegant wood carvings.
Salay is also home to the largest lacquer Buddha in Myanmar. It is from the 13th century and is hollow. The people of Salay found it floating down the river a few hundred years ago, which, of course, led to all kinds of superstitions and stories.
The Sasanayoungyi Monastery is still in use in Salay, and it welcomes visitors. We were greeted by the head monk and his cat, who were seated on the floor. The monk served us potato chips and then showed us his scriptures — some from the 13th century written on palm leaves, and some from later years written in white on a black board of some kind and accordion-folded. Scripture study, though now the writings are bound in books, is still a part of daily life here. And even though we did not speak the same language, we could appreciate his reverence for his books.
From Salay, we drove (jostling chandelier and all) to the Popa Mountain Resort, which gave us an excellent view of Mount Popa, an extinct volcano that stands up from the surrounding valley. On top there is another monastery, this one houses 37 mahagiri nats (or spirit people that are believed to control one's fate and destiny) making Mount Popa an equivalent of sorts to ancient Greece's Mount Olympus.
Had we the time — and the energy — we could have climbed the 777 steps to the top.
But for us it was back to Bagan to get ready for our next day's journey by boat down the Ayeyarwaddy — and to watch one more magical sunset. This time it was on a horse-cart ride through the archaeological zone. Accompanied only by the clip-clop of the horses' hooves, we watched the interplay of light and shadow on the temples and once again soaked up the spirit of Bagan.
E-mail: carma@desnews.com