When I bought my home in Maine, I was not what down-easters refer to as a "regular." I had been to Maine just five or six times before that magical day when I first laid eyes on Skylands, my wonderful future home. I had no knowledge of the traditions the regulars had ingrained in their lifestyles and vacation habits. It has taken me more than eight years to learn and practice some of these, and I know there are many more I have yet to discover or be introduced to.

Perhaps one of my favorites is the "picnic by boat" from one's home to an outlying island. The procedure is casual. What matters, of course, is that you have delicious food, a group of friends or family members, a navigational plan or destination, and a seaworthy vessel.

When I finally did buy my house, which looks down over the sea and the many, many islands that beckon one to venture forth and visit, it came with two deepwater moorings in a small, secluded harbor. I set out on my search for the perfect boat for the first-time boat owner, fully aware of all the complexities and wary of the fact that a novice had a lot to learn about the region's convoluted coastlines, lobster traps, invisible rocky outcroppings and ledges, and very unpredictable weather patterns.

I was fortunate that friends did not steer me wrong or even slightly astray, and that there are extraordinary boat makers and shipbuilders in Maine. I was invited on many day trips aboard all sorts of vessels: sailboats, dinghies and yachts. One in particular tickled my fancy, a craft known as a picnic boat — a traditional, sleek, fast, roomy boat at 36 feet long. Because of something called a jet drive, it can glide safely through the coastal waters of Maine — it has no propellers to tangle in lobster-pot lines or seaweed beds.

I tried out this type of boat, and ordered one for delivery the following year. I was so happy, choosing the color of the hull and the upholstery for the cushions, outfitting the modest but very workable galley and ordering the most important parts of the boat — the navigational tools and electronics.

We christened the boat Skylands II and in the ensuing years have used it well and often. We've gone whale watching, antiquing in Blue Hill and picnicking on the neighboring islands off the coast of Mount Desert Island. It takes just a few minutes to get to the boat and load on the hampers and coolers, and off we can be.

The menus for such meals vary greatly from family to family and boat to boat. One friend starts his picnics with specially mixed Bloody Marys, white wine, and cheese and crackers, and then serves a hot meal.

Even though I have a full galley, with a stove and a refrigerator, I like to prepare food that does not need to be reheated and that is packed in single-portion sizes so there is little waste and minimal cleanup. I have very nice cargo bags that are filled the morning of our picnics with drinks and food and ice and snacks. There are dishes and glasses aboard, as well as napkins and cutlery, so I don't have to carry those. Tablecloths are spread out on the cushions, and in a very short time the picnic is ready for everyone's enjoyment.

We try to take the dogs with us. Paw Paw loves the boat and curls up to enjoy the sea breezes and lots of petting. Bruce Norwood or Greg Dow captains my craft, but I like to do the driving. I do plan where we are going, so we usually have an objective to our picnic cruise, whether it is to see the puffins on Petit Manan Point, or the vast flocks of birds (guillemots) on Great Duck, or the seals on the rocks at East Bunker Ledge, or the century-old osprey nest on the coast of Sutton Island. The choices are numerous and the opportunities amazing.

COURT-BOUILLON

Makes 6 quarts

1 bunch fresh thyme

1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley

1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns

1/2 teaspoon whole fennel seeds

3 bay leaves

1 bottle (750 mL) dry white wine, such as sauvignon blanc

1 leek, white and pale-green parts only, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds, rinsed well

2 carrots, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds

1 lemon, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds

2 tablespoons coarse salt

1. Fill a large stockpot with 7 quarts of water. Make a bouquet garni: Place the herbs, spices and bay leaves on a square of cheesecloth; tie into a bundle with kitchen twine. Add to pot. Stir in wine, leek, carrots, lemon and salt.

2. Cover, and bring mixture to a simmer over medium-low heat. Uncover; gently simmer 30 minutes. Pour through a fine sieve into a large bowl; discard solids. Let cool completely. Court-bouillon can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 1 week or frozen up to 3 months.

CILANTRO-PARSLEY PESTO

Makes about 3/4 cup

2 cups loosely packed fresh cilantro sprigs

2 cups loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1 large garlic clove, minced

3/4 teaspoon coarse salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

Pulse herbs, garlic, salt and pepper in a food processor until finely chopped. With machine running, add oil in a slow, steady stream. Pesto can be refrigerated in an airtight container up to 2 days.

POTTED CRAB

Makes 3 cups

1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter

1 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked over

1 tablespoon brandy

2 teaspoons minced fresh red chile (seeded if desired)

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

Melba toast, for serving (recipe follows)

1. Clarify butter: Melt 1 cup butter in a small, deep saucepan over low heat. Simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat, and let stand 10 minutes. Using a spoon, skim foam from surface. Carefully pour clarified butter (the clear liquid) into a medium saucepan; discard milk solids from bottom of small pan.

2. Set clarified butter over medium heat. Gently stir in crabmeat. Heat until just bubbling. Remove from heat. Gently stir in brandy, chile, salt, pepper, paprika and nutmeg. Divide crab mixture among three 1-cup jars. Let cool completely.

3. Melt remaining 1/2 cup butter in a small saucepan over low heat. Let cool completely. Pour over crab mixture in jars. Potted crab can be refrigerated in airtight jars up to 1 week. Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes before serving. Serve with melba toast.

MELBA TOAST

Makes about 3 dozen

You can use any type of bread for this recipe. We used anadama bread, which is made with molasses and cornmeal.

1 small loaf bread (about 8 ounces)

1. Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Slice bread very thinly, then cut into 3-by-2-inch pieces. Arrange bread slices on a baking sheet.

2. Toast bread in oven, flipping slices halfway through, until dry, about 2 hours. Toast can be stored in airtight containers at room temperature up to 3 days.

FUDGY BROWNIES

Makes 12 to 16

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, plus more for dish

2/3 cup all-purpose flour, plus more for dish

1/2 teaspoon salt

12 ounces good-quality semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 1/4 cups packed light-brown sugar

4 large eggs

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking dish. Dust with flour, and tap out excess; set aside. Whisk together flour and salt in a small bowl; set aside.

2. Melt chocolate and butter in a heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring. Let cool completely.

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3. Meanwhile, put sugar and eggs into the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on high speed until pale, about 3 minutes. Reduce speed to low. Beat in chocolate mixture and the vanilla. Add flour mixture, and beat until just combined.

4. Spread batter evenly into prepared dish. Bake until top has cracked, center is just firm to the touch, and a cake tester inserted into center comes out with moist crumbs, 25 to 30 minutes. Let cool completely in dish on a wire rack. Cut into squares. Brownies can be stored in an airtight container up to 2 days.


© Martha Stewart Living Omnimedia, Inc. All rights reserved.

Distributed by New York Times Special Features

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