If there was one word to describe Philadelphia a week before the nation’s 250th, it would be: buzzing. Celebrations in the place where the nation was founded, combined with the FIFA World Cup at the Philadelphia Eagles stadium, the city was alive.
The nation’s focus will be on Washington, D.C., on Saturday, as massive celebrations are expected to take over the city, but what about the original capital city?
In Philadelphia for another article, my trusty 2010 digital camera and I hit the streets, eager to not only find a great cheesesteak, but also to soak in all the patriotism I could. And, so it seemed, did everyone else.
Standing outside Independence Hall, I was struck by the fact that exactly 250 years ago, in this very spot, sat the “Committee of Five.” The committee was composed of John Adams, Roger Sherman, Benjamin Franklin, Robert Livingston and Thomas Jefferson, and from June 11 until July 1, they drafted the Declaration of Independence.
Covering politicians for a living and having spent time working on Capitol Hill, I was fascinated by the small building that served as the first Congressional Hall from 1790 to 1800.
Back then, there were just 106 members in the House of Representatives and 32 Senators. They likely could have fit pretty comfortably in that building, but I laugh thinking about how chaotic it would be to squeeze the modern 535 members of Congress into it — not even counting all the staff!
I then meandered to the Liberty Bell, ducking under the roof awning to escape the rain as I waited in line. Once inside, I read about the creation of the bell, the infamous crack and more.
I learned — or maybe relearned from elementary school — that the crack is a result of an attempt to fix a smaller crack that destroyed the bell’s tone sometime after the American Revolution. Historians aren’t exactly sure when the first crack appeared, but repair work dates back to 1846. The bell tried to ring in honor of George Washington’s birthday and the larger crack formed.
Originally, the bell would summon members of Pennsylvania’s Assembly, like Benjamin Franklin. He wrote to Catherine Ray in 1767, “Adieu, the Bell rings, and I must go among the Grave ones and talk Politicks.” It wasn’t until later that the bell became a symbol of liberty and important in the slavery abolition movement. (Side note, I think we still think politics is among ‘the Grave ones.’)
Speaking of Ben, I went to the cemetery where he and his wife, Deborah, are buried. Visitors to his grave site used to toss pennies onto his marker in honor of his famous line, “A penny saved is a penny earned.” Due to the influx of coins, the stone cracked so visitors are encouraged to use a donation box near his gravesite instead. I was one of only a few people there and I meandered the rows in the slight rain, it was both peaceful and eerie.
Outside of nerding out over the city’s history, I got to experience the World Cup craze. My hotel had games running on the TVs in the lobby every day. Fans were decked out in their team’s colors and cheered when their team won.
On Friday night, I biked back from dinner near Rittenhouse Square and to my surprise, I happened upon a large police presence. Little did I know I — along with many adoring fans — would watch the Croatian team arrive in Philadelphia and head into the hotel next to mine.
I have to be honest, though. The whole time I was there, I was picturing scenes from Disney’s National Treasure movie. I even went to check out Reading Terminal Market downtown where the characters ran through to lose the bad guys.
My last stop before heading back to Washington was Angelo’s Pizzeria. Rated the best Philly cheesesteak in the city, I feverishly looked up videos and reviews. The line forms early, people said.
So, Sunday morning I got there at about 10:30 a.m., which is 30 minutes before they open, and was at least the 20th person in line. By the time it hit 11:00 a.m., the line was at least 60 more behind me. The price was a little steep, but it was delicious. 10 out of 10. Would buy again.
In all, I had a fantastic time exploring Philadelphia for the first time. My other article, highlighting the Braver Angels conference, helped get me in the right mindset ahead of the nation’s 250th. While we may be divided, there’s light at the end of the tunnel for the American experiment to go on. That’s exactly why Braver Angels CEO Maury Giles held the convention in Philadelphia, because when else will the nation turn 250 years old?
I hope everyone has a lovely, safe Fourth of July holiday and takes time to remember that even though patriotism is on the decline, it doesn’t have to be that way.