CONCORD, N.H. — Vegetarians seem particularly susceptible to eating themselves into ruts, filling their plates with the same tired tofu and lentil dishes day after day.
But keeping things interesting can be as simple as visiting ethnic markets and daring to bring home the herbs and spices that infuse life into the cuisines of cultures around the world.
Two recently published cookbooks that focus on the tastes and treats of Africa, Asia and Latin America show just how easy that can be.
Food writer Troth Wells traveled the world to research her beautifully photographed and intuitively organized collections of recipes, "The Spices of Life" and "Global Vegetarian Cooking" (both Interlink Books, 2001, $17.95).
Wells challenges the American palate with familiar spices in new and unusual ways, as in her recipe for Chocolate Beef Stew, which features a zippy blend of cocoa and chili pepper popular in Latin America.
Here the recipe is easily adapted for vegetarians by substituting seitan (also called "wheat meat") for the beef. Seitan, a dense protein formed from the gluten of wheat flour, is readily available at health food and some grocery stores.
Because it is cooked in a soy sauce broth, seitan has a naturally beefy taste along with its steak-like consistency. Seitan also is low in fat and carbohydrates and is cholesterol-free.
In this recipe, using seitan (extra-firm tofu also could be substituted) significantly reduces the cooking time because it comes ready to eat and needs only a short period in the pan to absorb the flavors of the dish.
For an even heartier meal, add additional vegetables such as chopped green peppers, button mushrooms and broccoli during the simmering stage.
Wells also shows how different spices can be used to jazz up even the most common vegetarian ingredients.
Sweet and Sour Red Lentils is a dish inspired by the fusion of Persian and Indian cooking common among the Parsis, who made their way to India centuries ago.
"This recipe does not belong to the heart attack school of cooking typical of Parsi cuisine, but it is a simple and lip-smacking variation on red lentils," Troth writes.
Troth uses brown sugar to mellow and sweeten the heat of the ginger and chilies that give this dish its zip. Brown rice syrup, barley malt syrup or honey also could be used.
CHOCOLATE SEITAN STEW
(Preparation time 20 minutes)
1/2 cup walnuts, whole
1/4 cup walnuts, chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
1 chili, seeds removed, chopped (see note)
3 cloves garlic, chopped
2 tablespoons raisins
1 1/2 tablespoons cocoa powder
14-ounce can of tomatoes
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
4 cloves
Pinch of salt
1 carrot, sliced
1 1/4 cups water or vegetable stock
2 pounds seitan, cubed similar to steak tips
In a food processor or blender, puree the whole walnuts, onion, chili, garlic, raisins, cocoa powder and tomatoes. The mixture should resemble a smooth chocolate shake.
In a large pan, heat the oil then sprinkle in the cinnamon, cloves and salt. Stir for a moment or two, then add the sliced carrot and cook for 1 minute.
Add the chopped walnuts and pureed mixture to the pan and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir frequently to prevent the mixture from sticking to the pan. Slowly add the stock or water and mix until blended.
Add the seitan cubes to the pan and mix thoroughly to coat. Simmer for about 10 minutes, letting seitan heat thoroughly and absorb the flavors of the sauce. Serve over rice or steamed potatoes.
Makes 6 servings.
SWEET AND SOUR RED LENTILS
(Preparation 15 minutes)
1/2 pound red lentils
1 1/2 cups water
3/4 teaspoon turmeric
Pinch of salt
8 cloves garlic
1-inch piece of fresh ginger
1 or 2 dried red chilies, seeds removed (see note)
1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons tamarind concentrate (available at most Asian grocers)
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, chopped
Place the lentils and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Skim from the surface any foam that forms. Add the turmeric and salt and simmer for about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, grind the garlic, ginger, chilies and cumin seeds to a paste using a mortar and pestle or a coffee grinder. In a small pan, heat the oil and add the spice paste.
Fry the paste, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute. If the paste starts to stick to the pan, add a tablespoon of water.
Add the spice paste to the lentils, along with the tamarind and sugar. Stir well and simmer for another minute. Serve hot, garnished with fresh cilantro.
Makes 2 to 4 servings.
Note: If desired, you may substitute about 1 teaspoon chili powder for each chili called for, as the writer did during testing.
Chocolate Seitan Stew is adapted from Troth's "The Spices of Life." Sweet and Sour Red Lentils is taken from "Global Vegetarian Cooking."