CONCORD, N.H. — Nancy Mair doesn't believe single people should have to figure out what 1/4 of 1/4 of a teaspoon of cinnamon is, just to enjoy a batch of homemade cookies.
But more often than not, people who aren't feeding an army every night find themselves doing just that, halving or even quartering recipes written to feed four, six and sometimes eight people.
This was the inspiration for Mair's innovative cookbook, "The Intimate Vegetarian" (2001, Renaissance Books, $18.95), which offers more than 150 recipes written to make only one or two servings.
"There was nothing for singles and couples," Mair said during a recent interview.
So Mair gathered her favorite vegetarian recipes — collected over 25 years of abstaining from meat — and began testing how to make them for one, and then two. And it wasn't as easy as it sounds.
"You can't necessarily double between one and two. I had to redo the recipes entirely because the proportions shift," she said. "For grains, you have to use a completely different proportion of water to grains because it cooks off so quickly."
Cooking times also change, as do spices.
For an intimate meal for one or two, try Mair's Potachos, a cross between potato skins and nachos.
"These Mexican potatoes are emblazoned with melted cheese and topped with diced peppers, onions and olives," she writes. "They make a rousing dish in the morning when served with eggs, or lively dinnertime fare."
This dish calls for cheese, but can be made dairy-free with an easy substitution of soy or rice cheese.
POTACHOS
(Proportions for 2 servings follow each ingredient)
(Preparation 10 minutes for 1 serving, 20 minutes for 2; baking 1 hour)
1/4 teaspoon salt ( 1/2 teaspoon)
1/4 teaspoon garlic granules ( 1/2 teaspoon)
1/4 teaspoon chili powder ( 1/2 teaspoon)
1/4 teaspoon cumin ( 1/2 teaspoon)
1/8 teaspoon oregano ( 1/4 teaspoon)
Pinch coriander ( 1/8 teaspoon)
Dash cayenne pepper (dash)
2 cups white or red potatoes, diced (4 cups)
1/2 tablespoon canola or safflower oil (1 tablespoon)
1/2 cup cheddar cheese, grated (1 cup)
2 tablespoons green bell pepper, finely diced ( 1/3 cup)
2 tablespoons black olives ( 1/3 cup)
2 tablespoons green onion, chopped ( 1/4 cup)
Preheat oven to 400 F. In a small bowl, mix together salt, garlic, chili powder, cumin, oregano, coriander and cayenne pepper. Set aside.
Peel potatoes, or rinse and scrub skins clean. Pat dry with paper towel. Cut into 1/2-inch cubes and spread in an 8-by-8-inch baking dish (9-by-13-inch for two).
Drizzle olive oil over potatoes, then toss and rub potatoes with your hands to lightly coat. Sprinkle evenly with spice mixture and toss again to coat.
Cover dish with foil and bake for 30 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking an additional 15 minutes.
Remove dish from the oven and sprinkle first with cheese, then with bell peppers, olives and green onions. Return to oven, uncovered, and bake an additional 15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender when poked with a fork. Serve warm.