As a recent convert to Afghan cuisine, thanks to the Kabul West in Sandy, I was heartened that another Afghan restaurant should open in Salt Lake City, this time downtown.
About a month ago, Baba opened in a spacious, cleanly appointed location on 400 South between Main and State streets. The menus are comparable with specialties from an exotic part of the world shrouded in both mystery and complex history. Lamb, yogurt and aromatic seasonings such as garlic and mint characterize a style of cooking that has served Afghanistan's nomadic and hearty inhabitants through centuries of un-friendly climates and unfriendly invaders.During our recent dinner visit we found the offerings just as hearty and substantive, yet some dishes stood out more than others. We also learned from the informative waiter and management, who eagerly inquired about our meal and offered assistance in translating menu items, that the Salt Lake version of Baba has cousins in other parts of the United States.
The kaddo borawni appetizer ($2.95), was meltingly soft-baked and fried pumpkin, seasoned with sugar and brushed with a ground beef sauce. The portion is served atop a flavorful and omnipresent yogurt garlic sauce that is offered with many of the other dishes on the menu. The aushak (also $2.95), or Afghan ravioli, are soft pasta noodles filled with leeks, served with yogurt sauce seasoned with mint and garlic, then topped with ground beef and mint. This portion was also very good.
Other appetizers on the menu include mantoo, or pastry shells filled with onions and beef; bowlani, pan-fried shells filled with leeks and spiced potatoes; and banjan borawni, pan-fried eggplant baked with tomatoes and green peppers. Soup offerings include aush, a homemade noodle soup; mashawa, a yogurt soup that includes beef, mung beans, chick peas and black-eyed peas; and shorwa, with lamb and fresh vegetables. Two salad choices include a mixed green salad with pomegranate dressing and shor-na-khod, a mix of potatoes and chick peas with cilantro vinaigrette dressing.
Our two entrees, of the 15 on the bill of fare, were good, though not as satisfying as we had hoped. The portions of the lamb with the Kabuli ($8.95) were somewhat sparse and overcooked, not as tender of chunks as lamb shanks usually are. They were imbedded in a heaping serving of browned rice along with raisins and glazed julienne of carrots. The half serving of rack of lamb with the Poushtee Kabab ($12.95) seemed also a bit over trimmed, though the lamb was more tender and reflective of its marinade. A side order of sauteed eggplant was barely warm. Entrees come with a chewy Afghan bread and several sauces including spicy cilantro and yogurt.
Other entrees include dwopiaza, grilled lamb tenderloin sauteed with yellow split peas and onions; seekh kabob, charbroiled lamb marinated in onion puree, sun dried grapes, and herbs; mantoo; aushak; deygee kabob, steamed lamb shanks sauteed with yellow split peas, onions and red bell peppers; sabzi challow, spinach sauteed with beef; Baba's special kabob, beef grilled and served with lentils and wheat barley; theeka kabob, marinated and grilled beef; koufta challow, marinated and charbroiled chicken breast with yellow split peas; and a vegetarian special that comes with baked pumpkin, pan-fried eggplant, sauteed spinach and sauteed okra. Prices range from $5.95 to $13.95.
A special ice cream with pistachios, or sheerekh, and fernee, cream pudding with pistachios and cardamom (both $2.95) were pleasant postscripts to our dinner. Other dessert dishes include baklawa and rice pudding.
Baba Afghan Restaurant is worth a visit for both its courteous and helpful service and its engaging and flavorful menu. First time and experienced diners should find their experience enjoyable.