Boy, 400 South downtown sure is a mess. Most of us are avoiding it like the plague — unless, of course, you happen to run a business on it. Then you're there every day, perhaps cursing it, wishing the light-rail construction were finished.
This week, I found a good reason to deal with the gravel and the road crews. There's a great new place to hang out and eat Middle Eastern food called Salt Lake Coffee Break. As with other shops whose specialty is coffee, such as Salt Lake Roasting Co. or A Cup of Joe, if you're not a coffee drinker, you may be missing out on some good gourmet food.
I noticed Salt Lake Coffee Break for the banner outside advertising Middle Eastern food. I was hopeful there would be something interesting and new for the downtown food scene. Salt Lake Coffee Break is spacious and a little sterile but with time may get more homey. There's a patio in the front and a Middle Eastern foods market and plenty of parking out in the back.
I sampled the small menu of Middle Eastern dishes for lunch this week, which I would characterize as "Mediterranean Lite." Although the sandwich section of the menu features meats, the Mediterranean side is meatless. The food is pretty healthful, featuring chickpeas, greens, rice and lentils and is seasoned quite mildly.
I had lentil soup and feta salad for starters. The broth of the soup is of a medium weight, with lentils nearly all blended and only lightly seasoned with pepper. The salad was fresh spinach, seeded tomato pieces, a light tart dressing and a generous layer of feta cheese. I found both of these to be refreshing, though not adventurous, for their simple flavors and lack of heaviness.
Next was the Mediterranean plate. This is probably the best way to sample most of what the Break is making. It has hummus, falafel, mujadara, salad and pita bread.
For those of you who know hummus, a paste made from chickpeas and spices, the Break's is a milder one. That's good for those new to it, as well. It has a smooth, creamy texture and is only mildly kicky.
Mujadara, a warm, mild rice and lentil mixture, is easy to like. As is the chopped salad of green-leaf lettuce, olives, cucumber, herbs and light dressing. Grab yourself a pita wedge and a falafel and a fork — or fingers — and just start digging into the plate.
I only wish there were more than three falafels on the plate. The Break's little chickpea croquettes are tasty; not too spicy and perfectly crispy and tender at the same time.
Be sure to try the pastries, which I'm told are made exclusively for Salt Lake Coffee Break.
It's refreshing to have a menu like this in the neighborhood.
Price for soup is $2.25, salad $4.85, sandwiches $4.65-$6.75, Mediterranean foods $2.50-$7.50, desserts $1-$3.75, specialty drinks $1-$3.45.
Salt Lake Coffee Break
*** (out of five)
Hours: Sunday-Thursday 7 a.m.-2 a.m., Friday and Saturday 7 a.m.-3 a.m.
Location: 430 E. 400 South, 355-4244
Payment: checks, major credit cards
Reservations: none needed
E-mail: stephanie@desnews.com